X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-da01.mx.aol.com ([205.188.105.143] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4.2) with ESMTP id 5188525 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 06 Nov 2011 01:10:41 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.105.143; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-mb04.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mb04.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.75]) by imr-da01.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id pA66A4IZ009453 for ; Sun, 6 Nov 2011 01:10:04 -0500 Received: from core-moe003c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-moe003.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.188.73]) by mtaomg-mb04.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 1F416E000081 for ; Sun, 6 Nov 2011 01:10:04 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <4ab67.5b9f38a7.3be77ebb@aol.com> Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 01:10:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Where's the Buttons? To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4ab67.5b9f38a7.3be77ebb_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.6 sub 5004 X-Originating-IP: [173.88.22.222] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20110426; t=1320559804; bh=alszRKA8d8B+cij4XL8sA1GzT40UBFFfNun0XU+nmcU=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=UbAaRZJLNCB9dlpUe/TcxUcfEDOgmTZFoCzOGmxU5CvYRQVXCrCmlC1ek5/fDDR4o jn33DHU8P56YgPC0jzMnS3RyVWyj+znJvAEJlj/nEGzYRJfs06T4jEPw2fuUBEoaox zpScO2vxnloG7h7BSfHPYiztQ/DMUExVloYigLLk= X-AOL-SCOLL-SCORE: 0:2:395203040:93952408 X-AOL-SCOLL-URL_COUNT: 0 x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d294b4eb624bc35e9 --part1_4ab67.5b9f38a7.3be77ebb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The rubber plugs vanish if you operate at high power settings for very long. They just barely last in a street engine. Some usually gone on each tear down. That is not the problem. The plug style corner seal is not very strong. All are powdered metal and under great stress, like a detonation event will crack. I have never found a stock solid seal broken. I have found the plug style broken many times. Just order the early solid corner seal. Not an after market solid seal. Mazda makes the best pieces in most cases. Chatter marks are from warn apex seal grooves, low spring pressure, overheated apex seals, low or no apex seal lubrication. Failed compression "O" rings have been over heated. I have never used an aftermarket "O" ring but as an emergency for a one weekend engine I have used Teflon or Kapton insulated 18 gage aircraft electrical wire as an "O" ring along with a very small bead of silicone in the groove. It is nearly impossible to get the water "O" ring to fail. (the outer black one). Ran that engine all year since it was not leaking at all. I always use the stock "O" rings, and even reuse them many times. 99% of the sealing is just the clamping forces between the housing and the iron. Racing Beat says to use 32 pounds of torque on the case bolts in boosted engines. Also no split timing, and not more than 12 degrees of advance in ignition timing. I would suggest over-rich mixtures for racing and full throttle climb out from low altitudes. Keeps things much cooler. More apex seal lubrication (if premixing). And even with Richards top oil adaptor I would premix just a bit more oil. The distribution is just much better in a premix. On street ported engines never turn them backwards unless you know that the builder radiused the bottom of the port to pick up the drooping trailing end of the side seals. Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 11/5/2011 1:14:51 P.M. Paraguay Daylight Time, keltro@att.net writes: Concerning the corner seal rubber buttons it seems that they end up reverting back to carbon and lose all elasticity (particularity under high heat) and become useless for their original purpose which was to give slightly increased compression at starter speeds...........I personally will use the solid racing corner seals available from Mazda and other sources.................IMHO --part1_4ab67.5b9f38a7.3be77ebb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The rubber plugs vanish if you operate at high power settings for very= =20 long. They just barely last in a street engine. Some usually gone on each t= ear=20 down. That is not the problem. The
plug style corner seal is not very strong. All are powdered metal and = under=20 great stress, like a detonation event will crack. I have never found a stoc= k=20 solid seal broken. I have found the plug style broken many times. Just orde= r the=20 early solid corner seal. Not an after market solid seal. Mazda makes the be= st=20 pieces in most cases.
 
Chatter marks are from warn apex seal grooves, low spring pressure,=20 overheated apex seals, low or no apex seal lubrication.
 
Failed compression "O" rings have been over heated. I have never used = an=20 aftermarket "O" ring but as an emergency for a one weekend engine I have us= ed=20 Teflon or Kapton insulated 18 gage aircraft electrical wire as an "O" ring = along=20 with a very small bead of silicone in the groove.
 
It is nearly impossible to get the water "O" ring to fail. (the outer = black=20 one).
 
Ran that engine all year since it was not leaking at all. I always use= the=20 stock "O" rings, and even reuse them many times. 99% of the sealing is just= the=20 clamping forces between the housing and the iron.
 
 Racing Beat says to use 32 pounds of torque on the case bolts in= =20 boosted engines. Also no split timing, and not more than 12 degrees of adva= nce=20 in ignition timing. I would suggest over-rich mixtures for racing and full= =20 throttle climb out from low altitudes. Keeps things much cooler. More apex = seal=20 lubrication (if premixing). And even with Richards top oil adaptor I would= =20 premix just a bit more oil. The distribution is just much better in a premi= x.=20
 
On street ported engines never turn them backwards unless you know tha= t the=20 builder radiused the bottom of the port to pick up the drooping trailing en= d of=20 the side seals.
 
Lynn E. Hanover
 
 
 
In a message dated 11/5/2011 1:14:51 P.M. Paraguay Daylight Time,=20 keltro@att.net writes:
=
 Concerning t= he corner=20 seal rubber buttons it seems that they end up reverting back to carbon=20 and
lose all elasticity (particularity u= nder high=20 heat) and become useless for their original purpose=20 which 
was to give slight= ly=20 increased compression at starter speeds...........I personally will use t= he=20 solid
racing corner seal= s=20 available from Mazda and other=20 sources.................IMHO 
= --part1_4ab67.5b9f38a7.3be77ebb_boundary--