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Don,
Also, let us know if you choose a wet housing or not and why. Even though I am inclined to follow John Slade in many ways, I am still pondering this point. Not sure what my resistance to a wet housing is, but I do have some.....the China turbo I have (Ebay special) is dry so maybe I am just more comfortable with the style I can actually currently see. But, also, speaking to an engineer friend, stating that turbo's are designed for just oil cooling, in airplanes of course, since most do not carry coolant, but also, often in cars, where there is a choice only oil cooling is still common.
Thanks.
Chris Barber
Houston, GSOT
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From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf of Don Wallker [drwalker@gbis.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Turbo Planning
So here is where I am at so far. For those of you just tuning in, I am
flying a Renesis powered RV-8, with all of Tracy's stuff and a
Catto76/88 prop. Flys great, and I'm getting comfortable with it.
It's just not getting enough power. About 6080 static and 1450 ft/mn
climb at about 2200 rpm prop at 100 mph and that's at full throttle.
Max indicated at 8000ft, 54 degree day, 2440 on the prop and 205 oil and
200 degree water. So I need more cooling and more power. I'm going to
attack both at once and get it all done.
I'm roughly basing these changes on what Dave Leonard has done. He's
been through all this and has a fast powerful and dependable turbo set
up in a similar airplane. RV-6. And it runs cool! For more info and
pictures, check out Dave's website n4vy.rotaryroster.net Also a lot of
ideas from John, Scott, Chris, Steve etc.
Radiator: C&R 3"x22x20, mounted under the oil pan. A 1" inlet and
outlet with short runs to the new water manifold that Ed is making. I'm
hoping I wont' have to build up the cowl, just cut into it, but I doubt
it. I will also have to increase the exit area and am not sure how to
do that yet.
Oil cooler: Dave was using a Setrab, but they kept leaking. Tracy is
using a 30 row C&R cooler on his 3 rotor.PT# oc 238 30 an10, They also
make a 25 row that is about the same size as the setrab and should work
and fit nicely behind the right cheek and provide a nice short oil line run.
Throttle body: Probably a 75mm Mustang
Intercooler: Dave is using a stock 91 Rx-7 one and I will probably use
the same. Hey, it fits! There will almost certainly need to be some
modifications to the inlet and outlet. I have a Tig and a neighbor who
is a great welder. We just tack things there, as I don't have enough
power in the hanger for continuous welding.
Intake: I'm going to try and keep it totally on the left side of the
engine and will use the existing Rx-8 lower aluminum intake manifold.
I'll cut it down, grind it level and have a plate welded on top, with 4
holes going to the intake tubes and short velocity stacks welded on. On
top and around will be the intake manifold itself. Just an aluminum box
with a throttle body attached. I'm not sure just where yet. It depends
on how much room there is. Combustion air will flow into the cowl,
possibly from down by the radiator, or from a naca scoop on the side,
to the turbo compressor, through it to the inner cooler and through it
and back to the throttle body. Not sure where the injectors will go,
but I'll try to use the existing injector holes. May have to use the
Simple Digital injector mounts. Note, fire sleeve all fuel lines. It
solved half my vapor lock problems.
Turbo: will be mounted on the left side of the engine and a little back
from directly out from the exhaust. May be 3 to 4 inches. This should
give me room for the inner cooler and intake manifold. But I may not
have room for the fuel pumps and filters and they may have to go back
inside the cabin, by my feet. Not a bad idea. I'll use 321 ss and make
an equal length exhaust manifold with a waste gate port that will run to
the output side of the turbine. The exhaust out of the turbine will
bend down and out the back cowl exit to a muffler. I'm going to try the
new Burns all SS muffler that some of the rotary racers are using. They
use stainless steel scruble for the packing. Can't burn that out! and
it's 3 lbs and my existing Hushpower is 9. There will be a oil line
going to the turbo with a normally open solenoid on it and an exit line
out. It will be 5/8ths and run down and around the engine to the other
side where it will go through the side of the engine, like I have the
RD-c return line. I don't want to have to pull the engine out of the
mount, but that is the only way. If someone knows a better place to
run it back into, let me know. The turbo will be supported by more than
the exhaust. When the exhaust is finished, it will be sent for Jet Hot
coating. There will be a SS shroud around the turbo and the same for
the exhaust. I still don't know if I should use a wet or dry turbo
housing, but more on that in the next post.
Your thoughts, comments and questions are encouraged.
Don Walker
N113BR, 28 hours
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