X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from fmailhost05.isp.att.net ([204.127.217.105] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.16) with ESMTP id 3848658 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 13 Sep 2009 05:03:13 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.217.105; envelope-from=keltro@att.net DKIM-Signature: v=1; q=dns/txt; d=att.net; s=dkim01; i=keltro@att.net; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; t=1252832593; h=Content-Type: MIME-Version:In-Reply-To:Message-Id:Date:Subject:To:From; bh=vMtube bdzf1L2h4sGZwrR8AkngdX6RkkdlRT9E9XoWg=; b=HwRFtJxWzczvIBLXjruRZf7qW B4hC1slVLbePhatEctqM4mIPJ2vxdG/S6KNSUF36dfbXK4ACZFA+/MeSLm0Hw== Received: from fwebmail11.isp.att.net ([207.115.9.151]) by isp.att.net (frfwmhc05) with SMTP id <20090913090237H05003ebd1e>; Sun, 13 Sep 2009 09:02:37 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [207.115.9.151] Received: from [208.114.34.44] by fwebmail11.isp.att.net; Sun, 13 Sep 2009 09:02:37 +0000 From: "Kelly Troyer" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: cooling plumbing design [ right?, right? :-) ] Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 09:02:37 +0000 Message-Id: <091320090902.22519.4AACB52C000D4E1C000057F722230650029B0A02D29B9B0EBF019D9B040A05@att.net> In-Reply-To: X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Mar 2 2009) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_22519_1252832557_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_22519_1252832557_0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable David and All, I am in complete agreement with the need for the expansion tank !!...= ........It also prevents=20 coolant loss into the overflow (pluke) can when coolant expansion causes a = hydraulic lock and pushes coolant past the pressure cap...........What ever bypasses the press= ure cap will not be returned to the system until complete cool down and after many heat cycles = can result in a gradual loss of coolant.............Should you fail to provide a overflow c= an you will certainly lose coolant very quickly.............IMHO=20 -- Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 -------------- Original message from hoursaway1@comcast.net: --------------= =20 You need some kind of header/expansion tank in sys. with aprox 4 to 8 squar= e inches of air, allows sys. to pressurise more easily & maintains a steady= pressure. David Cook RV6A Rotary. ----- Original Message ----- From: SHIPCHIEF@aol.com To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:42:10 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling plumbing design [ right?, right? :-) ] I guess that answered my question; I have the 'water flowing thru the tank with radiator cap on the tank'. I did it to make sure all air is continuously removed from the system. Any = bubbles would go to the top of the thermostat housing and flow to the top o= f the tank. The line from the bottom of the tank goes to the water pump suc= tion to assure that the engine stays full.=20 When filling the system for the first time, the water enters the tank thru = the cap, and flows out into the engine thru the bottom 5/16ths hose, air de= parts thru the upper hose until the system is full. When the engine is started, any trapped air in the forward part of the engi= ne gets pushed thru the turbo bearing housing cooling line back to the wate= r pump suction, where it rises thru the vent hole in the pump housing to th= e top, then is pushed to the head tank. Effective, heavy. I see now that I can put the fill cap on the thermostat housing, and run a = hose to the burp tank bottom. Skip the header tank and remove a few pounds = from the fire wall.=20 Put a tee in the fwd 'vent' that sends cooling water thru the turbo, and op= en it when filling the system to purge air. Connect the cooling water press= ure sensor here.=20 Small remaining bubbles would acumulate in the thermostat housing/filler ne= ck where they would stay until enough system expansion pushed them out the = cap to the burp can. Upon cooling, system vacuum pulls water from the botto= m of the burp can, until no air remains in the engine...like the car. DOH! And I spent so much time and effort on the old system.=20 --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_22519_1252832557_0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_22519_1252832557_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_22519_1252832557_1 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
David and All,
      I am in complete agreement with the nee= d for the expansion tank !!...........It also prevents
coolant loss into the overflow (pluke) can when coolant expansion caus= es a hydraulic lock and
pushes coolant past the pressure cap...........What ever bypasses the = pressure cap will not be
returned to the system until complete cool down and after many he= at cycles can result in a
gradual loss of coolant.............Should you fail to provide a overf= low can you will certainly
lose coolant very quickly.............IMHO 
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d

-------------- Original message from hoursaway1@comcast.net: ----= ----------
You need some kind of header/expansion tank in sys. with apr= ox 4 to 8 square inches of air, allows sys. to pressurise more ea= sily & maintains a steady pressure.   David Cook  RV6A&n= bsp; Rotary.
----- Original Message -----
From: SHIPCHIEF@aol.com
= To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent= : Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:42:10 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
= Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling plumbing design [ right?, right? :-) ]
=
I gue= ss that answered my question;
I have the 'water flowing thru the tank wi= th radiator cap on the tank'.
I did it to make sure all air is continuou= sly removed from the system. Any=20bubbles would go to the top of the therm= ostat housing and flow to the top of the tank. The line from the bottom of = the tank goes to the water pump suction to assure that the engine stays ful= l.
When filling the system for the first time, the water enters the tan= k thru the cap, and flows out into the engine thru the bottom 5/16ths hose,= air departs thru the upper hose until the system is full.
When the engi= ne is started, any trapped air in the forward part of the engine gets pushe= d thru the turbo bearing housing cooling line back to the water pump suctio= n, where it rises thru the vent hole in the pump housing to the top, then i= s pushed to the head tank. Effective, heavy.
I see now that I can put th= e fill cap on the thermostat housing, and run a hose to the burp tank botto= m. Skip the header tank and remove a few pounds from the fire wall.
Put= a tee in the fwd 'vent' that sends cooling water thru the turbo, and open = it when filling the system to purge air. Connect the cooling water pressure= sensor here.
Small remaining bubbles would acumulate in the thermostat= housing/filler neck where they would stay until enough system expansion pu= shed them out the cap to the burp can. Upon cooling, system vacuum pulls wa= ter from the bottom of the burp can, until no air remains in the engine...l= ike the car.
DOH! And I spent so much time and effort on the old system.=
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