X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from fmailhost05.isp.att.net ([204.127.217.105] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.15) with ESMTP id 3771197 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 03:49:16 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.217.105; envelope-from=keltro@att.net DKIM-Signature: v=1; q=dns/txt; d=att.net; s=dkim01; i=keltro@att.net; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; t=1248421755; h=Content-Type: MIME-Version:In-Reply-To:Message-Id:Date:Subject:To:From; bh=yPH9uB IJGGdjYIrHUval+F7pcLBeFpVArNXfnMrvAMg=; b=jbwjutVMpH+3eExl9uIS2Vk3i 52mVc3WuK/K2DMJtSfSMIY7PZZF2z+2AR25SSKBtYndp7cYM8RqdpBAzuEH3Q== Received: from fwebmail11.isp.att.net ([204.127.221.111]) by isp.att.net (frfwmhc05) with SMTP id <20090724074839H05003tccfe>; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:48:39 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [204.127.221.111] Received: from [208.114.44.7] by fwebmail11.isp.att.net; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:48:38 +0000 From: "Kelly Troyer" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: latest problem (Addendum) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:48:38 +0000 Message-Id: <072420090748.14156.4A69675600043E6E0000374C22230650029B0A02D29B9B0EBF019D9B040A05@att.net> In-Reply-To: X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Mar 2 2009) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14156_1248421718_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14156_1248421718_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike, After thought..............For the top holes you do not need a full thread, just enough to hold the plug (and sealant) and invest in a "Bottoming Tap" (designed to produce threads to the bottom of blind holes) (does not have a taper to make starting easier) for whatever size plug you find necessary.........If necessary you can cut (grind) the taper off a cheap tap to produce a bottoming tap.............You probably know all this but thought I would kick it out there for others of the group......... Kelly Troyer "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold -------------- Original message from "Kelly Troyer" : -------------- Mike, I feel your pain but you will get there...............As for the leaking filter pad I did the same mod (requires drilling up from the plugged oil galley on the rear housing oil pan surface to connect the two holes left when removing the pad).............I did tap all three holes for 1/4" pipe plugs.............No problem for the pan surface hole (must be flush with surface so pan will seal) but be careful with the two top holes as it would be easy to split the cast iron..... Might be better to use a straight threaded plug with a fine thread...........Depending on how deep Bruce put the "JB" weld you may be able to just drill out enough for your threaded plug and leave the remainder in place so as not to drop shavings into oil galley........I would check with Bruce as to the depth of the epoxy............FWIW -- Kelly Troyer "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold -------------- Original message from "Mike Wills" : -------------- My engine seems to be working really well since reseating the improperly seated B chip in the EC-2. I've run for a few hours and have not been able to force a re-occurance of the lost data problem. I'm cautiously optimistic. I also appear to be jinxed. My engine has developed an oil leak. The engine was built by Bruce Turrentine and one of the mods he performed was to remove the stock oil filter pad. He didnt simply install a block off plate from Racing Beat though. He cut the pad off flush and plugged the remaining holes with what appears to be JB Weld. One of those plugs has suddenly started leaking. Not sure how best to fix this. Thinking the best approach is probably to remove the epoxy and tap for threaded plugs. But I'm afraid there may not be enough metal left to take a thread. Also afraid of dropping epoxy shavings down into the oil passage. I'm open to suggestions. Man I'm tired of working on this thing. I want to fly it! Mike Wills RV-4 N144MW --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14156_1248421718_0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14156_1248421718_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14156_1248421718_1 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Mike,
   After thought..............For the top holes you do not n= eed a full thread, just enough
to hold the plug (and sealant) and invest in a "Bottoming Tap" (design= ed to produce
threads to the bottom of blind holes) (does not have a taper to m= ake starting easier)
for whatever size plug you find necessary.........If necessary you can= cut (grind) the
taper off a cheap tap to produce a bottoming tap.............You proba= bly know all
this but thought I would kick it out there for others of the group....= .....
 
 
 Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d   



 
-------------- Original message from "Kelly Troyer" <kelt= ro@att.net>: --------------

Mike,
  I feel your pain but you will get there...............As for th= e leaking filter pad I did the same
mod (requires drilling up from the plugged oil galley on the rear hous= ing oil pan surface to
connect the two holes left when removing the pad).............I did ta= p all three holes for 1/4"
pipe plugs.............No problem for the pan surface hole (must be fl= ush with surface so pan
will seal) but be careful with the two top holes as it would be easy t= o split the cast iron.....
 Might be better to use a straight threaded plug with a fine thre= ad...........Depending on how
deep Bruce put the "JB" weld you may be able to just drill out enough = for your threaded
plug and leave the remainder in place so as not to drop shavings into = oil galley........I would
check with Bruce as to the depth of the epoxy............FWIW 
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d



 
-------------- Original message from "Mike Wills" <rv-4mi= ke@cox.net>: --------------

My engine seems to be working really well = since reseating the improperly seated B chip in the EC-2. I've run for a fe= w hours and have not been able to force a re-occurance of the lost data pro= blem. I'm cautiously optimistic.
 
I also appear to be jinxed. My engine has = developed an oil leak. The engine was built by Bruce Turrentine and one of = the mods he performed was to remove the stock oil filter pad. He didnt simp= ly install a block off plate from Racing Beat though. He cut the pad off fl= ush and plugged the remaining holes with what appears to be JB Weld. One of= those plugs has suddenly started leaking. Not sure how best to fix this. T= hinking the best approach is probably to remove the epoxy and tap for threa= ded plugs. But I'm afraid there may not be enough metal left to take a thre= ad. Also afraid of dropping epoxy shavings down into the oil passage. I'm o= pen to suggestions.
 
Man I'm tired of working on this thing. I = want to fly it!
 
Mike Wills
RV-4 N144MW
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