X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from fmailhost02.isp.att.net ([204.127.217.102] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.15) with ESMTP id 3771190 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 03:24:37 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.217.102; envelope-from=keltro@att.net DKIM-Signature: v=1; q=dns/txt; d=att.net; s=dkim01; i=keltro@att.net; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; t=1248420277; h=Content-Type: MIME-Version:In-Reply-To:Message-Id:Date:Subject:To:From; bh=hfeBv6 SYk/5z1nXQouKBk3s+V9gXJDSR3F6nwSCawFM=; b=bpDVBctDvzMRm6P+pZtknk8vV gjASr7NBVay0QeKFP3EOEIhH42tBSuwzYzqNxtck8azSG6VXwV1evu9ovyNYw== Received: from fwebmail11.isp.att.net ([207.115.9.151]) by isp.att.net (frfwmhc02) with SMTP id <20090724072402H0200a7fjhe>; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:24:02 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [207.115.9.151] Received: from [208.114.44.7] by fwebmail11.isp.att.net; Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:24:00 +0000 From: "Kelly Troyer" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: latest problem Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:24:00 +0000 Message-Id: <072420090724.7800.4A6961900007CC6B00001E7822230650029B0A02D29B9B0EBF019D9B040A05@att.net> In-Reply-To: X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Mar 2 2009) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7800_1248420240_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7800_1248420240_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike, I feel your pain but you will get there...............As for the leaking filter pad I did the same mod (requires drilling up from the plugged oil galley on the rear housing oil pan surface to connect the two holes left when removing the pad).............I did tap all three holes for 1/4" pipe plugs.............No problem for the pan surface hole (must be flush with surface so pan will seal) but be careful with the two top holes as it would be easy to split the cast iron..... Might be better to use a straight threaded plug with a fine thread...........Depending on how deep Bruce put the "JB" weld you may be able to just drill out enough for your threaded plug and leave the remainder in place so as not to drop shavings into oil galley........I would check with Bruce as to the depth of the epoxy............FWIW -- Kelly Troyer "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold -------------- Original message from "Mike Wills" : -------------- My engine seems to be working really well since reseating the improperly seated B chip in the EC-2. I've run for a few hours and have not been able to force a re-occurance of the lost data problem. I'm cautiously optimistic. I also appear to be jinxed. My engine has developed an oil leak. The engine was built by Bruce Turrentine and one of the mods he performed was to remove the stock oil filter pad. He didnt simply install a block off plate from Racing Beat though. He cut the pad off flush and plugged the remaining holes with what appears to be JB Weld. One of those plugs has suddenly started leaking. Not sure how best to fix this. Thinking the best approach is probably to remove the epoxy and tap for threaded plugs. But I'm afraid there may not be enough metal left to take a thread. Also afraid of dropping epoxy shavings down into the oil passage. I'm open to suggestions. Man I'm tired of working on this thing. I want to fly it! Mike Wills RV-4 N144MW --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7800_1248420240_0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7800_1248420240_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7800_1248420240_1 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Mike,
  I feel your pain but you will get there...............As for th= e leaking filter pad I did the same
mod (requires drilling up from the plugged oil galley on the rear hous= ing oil pan surface to
connect the two holes left when removing the pad).............I did ta= p all three holes for 1/4"
pipe plugs.............No problem for the pan surface hole (must be fl= ush with surface so pan
will seal) but be careful with the two top holes as it would be easy t= o split the cast iron.....
 Might be better to use a straight threaded plug with a fine thre= ad...........Depending on how
deep Bruce put the "JB" weld you may be able to just drill out enough = for your threaded
plug and leave the remainder in place so as not to drop shavings into = oil galley........I would
check with Bruce as to the depth of the epoxy............FWIW 
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d



 
-------------- Original message from "Mike Wills" <rv-4mi= ke@cox.net>: --------------

My engine seems to be working really well = since reseating the improperly seated B chip in the EC-2. I've run for a fe= w hours and have not been able to force a re-occurance of the lost data pro= blem. I'm cautiously optimistic.
 
I also appear to be jinxed. My engine has = developed an oil leak. The engine was built by Bruce Turrentine and one of = the mods he performed was to remove the stock oil filter pad. He didnt simp= ly install a block off plate from Racing Beat though. He cut the pad off fl= ush and plugged the remaining holes with what appears to be JB Weld. One of= those plugs has suddenly started leaking. Not sure how best to fix this. T= hinking the best approach is probably to remove the epoxy and tap for threa= ded plugs. But I'm afraid there may not be enough metal left to take a thre= ad. Also afraid of dropping epoxy shavings down into the oil passage. I'm o= pen to suggestions.
 
Man I'm tired of working on this thing. I = want to fly it!
 
Mike Wills
RV-4 N144MW
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