X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d20.mx.aol.com ([205.188.139.136] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.13) with ESMTP id 3554333 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:13:01 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.139.136; envelope-from=WRJJRS@aol.com Received: from WRJJRS@aol.com by imo-d20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v39.1.) id q.c81.49d02be0 (37541) for ; Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:12:20 -0400 (EDT) Received: from smtprly-db02.mx.aol.com (smtprly-db02.mx.aol.com [205.188.249.153]) by cia-mb02.mx.aol.com (v123.3) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMB022-5c3649c406ae366; Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:12:22 -0400 Received: from webmail-db18 (webmail-db18.webmail.aol.com [205.188.105.83]) by smtprly-db02.mx.aol.com (v123.3) with ESMTP id MAILSMTPRLYDB024-5c3649c406ae366; Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:12:14 -0400 References: To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Aluminum hole repair Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:12:14 -0400 X-AOL-IP: 66.253.96.220 In-Reply-To: X-MB-Message-Source: WebUI MIME-Version: 1.0 From: wrjjrs@aol.com X-MB-Message-Type: User Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="--------MB_8CB77B7AD260766_17CC_1AC8_webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com" X-Mailer: AOL Webmail 41921-STANDARD Received: from 66.253.96.220 by webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com (205.188.105.83) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:12:14 -0400 Message-Id: <8CB77B7AD2142B6-17CC-CF9@webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com> X-Spam-Flag:NO ----------MB_8CB77B7AD260766_17CC_1AC8_webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" OOPS forgot that Time Sert changed their URL to www.timesert.com ! Bill -----Original Message----- From: wrjjrs@aol.com To: Rotary motors in aircraft Sent: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 1:09 pm Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Aluminum hole repair All Lynns suggestions are on point as usual. If I might add something, check= out Time-Serts. www.timefastener.com. These are the best thread repair kit=20= I have ever used. They come in metric sizes too. When I worked for Kawasaki=20= they were the only accepted thread repair system. They did lab tests on all=20= of them too, heli-coil, keen-sert, etc. The Time-Sert was the best=C2=A0by f= ar. You might still be able to buy the kits through the local Kawasaki deale= rs. (It's been a long time since I needed one.) The Time-Sert is one of the=20= thinnest available inserts if going into a thin boss. Good Luck, Bill Jepson -----Original Message----- From: Lynn Hanover To: Rotary motors in aircraft Sent: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 9:45 am Subject: [FlyRotary] Aluminum hole repair Thanks Ed, yes I have a tail-dragger and situation is as you stated =E2=80= =A6 will reconsider the gasket. I have a new tube of Ultra-Grey. Any comments on the aluminum Front Cover thread repair? Jeff =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0(For blind holes).=20 =C2=A0 Where practical, tapping out to 1/4" 20 can be used. Or for the purest, a He= licoil in metric. =C2=A0 =C2=A0 (For holes where the back of the hole will be exposed if it were deep er) =C2=A0 If you have a TIG machine, build up behind the damaged hole (inside the cove= r) flycut the upper end of the hole open. Slip in a metric nut covered with=20= epoxy, tension the nut with with a=C2=A0scew dipped in oil with the excess b= lown off, and let the epoxy set up.=20 =C2=A0 (For holes where the upper end is clearly open) =C2=A0 Flycut or die grind a flat above the threaded end and just use a nut and a s= tud. Tension the stud and nut with another nut and epoxy the stud and nut in= place.=20 =C2=A0 You could also TIG the hole shut, redrill and retap. =C2=A0 Aluminum is not good at holding onto small diameter screw threads, as you ma= y have noticed. The metric screw threads are just a bit too fine, and can be= over torqued with no difficulty. Larger diameter course threads work better= . Course threaded studs are best because they eliminate the wear problem of=20= the the screw going into and out of the aluminum hole. This is also why nuts= erts steel liners and helicoils are better. There wear is between the screw=20= and the steel hole liner.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 If the engine is being held into the airplane by just the oil pan screws, I=20= would go over sized on all of them. All studs, epoxied in place. Course thre= ads in the engine and fine threads through the mounting plate.=20 =C2=A0 I have had to repair many front covers. If you weld on one, bolt it to a fro= nt iron, as they are very flexible. =C2=A0 I can make drawings if anyone needs them. Lynn E. Hanover See Your Credit Report in Seconds! Easy to Read and Viewable Online.=20 ----------MB_8CB77B7AD260766_17CC_1AC8_webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" OOPS forgot that Time Sert changed their URL to www.timesert.com !
Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: wrjjrs@aol.com
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 1:09 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Aluminum hole repair

All Lynns s= uggestions are on point as usual. If I might add something, check out Time-S= erts. www.timefaste= ner.com. These are the best thread repair kit I have ever used. They com= e in metric sizes too. When I worked for Kawasaki they were the only accepte= d thread repair system. They did lab tests on all of them too, heli-coil, ke= en-sert, etc. The Time-Sert was the best by far. You might still be abl= e to buy the kits through the local Kawasaki dealers. (It's been a long time= since I needed one.) The Time-Sert is one of the thinnest available inserts= if going into a thin boss. Good Luck,
Bill Jepson


-----Original Message-----
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmai= l.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 9:45 am
Subject: [FlyRotary] Aluminum hole repair

Thanks Ed, yes I have a tail-dragger20and si= tuation is as you stated =E2=80=A6 will reconsider the gasket.
I have a new tube of Ultra-Grey.
Any comments on the aluminum Front Cover thr= ead repair?
Jeff<= /SPAN>
 
 
 
 (For blind holes).
 
Where practical, tapping out to 1/4" 20 can=20= be used. Or for the purest, a Helicoil in metric.
 
 
(For holes where the back of the hole will b= e exposed if it were deeper)
 
If you have a TIG machine, build up behind= the damaged hole (inside the cover) flycut the upper end of the hole open.=20= Slip in a metric nut covered with epoxy, tension the nut with with a sc= ew dipped in oil with the excess blown off, and let the epoxy set up.=
 
(For holes where the upper end is clearly open)
 
Flycut or die grind a flat above the threaded end and= just use a nut and a stud. Tension the stud and nut with another nut and ep= oxy the stud and nut in place.
 
You could also TIG the hole shut, redrill and retap.<= /div>
 
Aluminum is not good at holding onto small diameter s= crew threads, as you may have noticed. The metric screw threads are just a b= it too fine, and can be over torqued with no difficulty. Larger diameter cou= rse threads work better. Course threaded studs are best becau se they eliminate the wear problem of the the screw going into and out of th= e aluminum hole. This is also why nutserts steel liners and helicoils are be= tter. There wear is between the screw and the steel hole liner. 
 
If the engine is being held into the airplane by just= the oil pan screws, I would go over sized on all of them. All studs, epoxie= d in place. Course threads in the engine and fine threads through the mounti= ng plate.
 
I have had to repair many front covers. If you weld o= n one, bolt it to a front iron, as they are very flexible.
 
I can make drawings if anyone needs them.
 
Lynn E. Hanover

See Your Credit Report in Seconds! Easy to Read and Viewable Online.
----------MB_8CB77B7AD260766_17CC_1AC8_webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com--