X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.120] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.0) with ESMTP id 2758609 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:57:31 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.120; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 ([75.191.186.236]) by cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com with SMTP id <20080226185650.CXOU2345.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@edward2> for ; Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:56:50 +0000 Message-ID: <000e01c878a9$5a5168f0$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] More Musings...ah screw it, just shoot me! Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:56:53 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000B_01C8787F.711E73E0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.3138 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3198 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C8787F.711E73E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ah, the frustration! Most of us have been there (some more than once) You mention two things - you installed the new regulator AND the = instrument panel shifted from its original position just before the = second start. I strongly suspect that one of those actions may well = have contributed to your EM going bananas and perhaps other problems. I = would check my grounds for certain. If you do not have a good = electrical ground then there is no voltage reference for the chips and = they can do all sort of strange things. I would think the easiest (could be wrong) thing to do is to disconnect = the voltage regulator temporarily and see if that has any effect, next I = would check to make certain I had a good electrical ground. Good luck Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com http://www.andersonee.com http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Christopher Barber=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:28 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] More Musings...ah screw it, just shoot me! Got off work and happily headed to the hangar. I was able to get it = to start and stay pretty cool for a while as I played with the settings. = Switched from Controller A to B, back to A, disabled the Primary = Injectors, the Secondary Injectors(in succession ), switched back to = B, did the disable toggle spring switch with an expected drop in = RPM...switch back to center and expected RPM returns. Throttled up and = the RPM steadily increased without jumping around until it got to 4999 = or so and went to zero and started jumping around above 5000 rpm......no = big deal yet as we discussed the possible noise issue yesterday and I = have not checked the problems yet. Used my laser temp gauge to see if = the engine and the EM were kinda close, they were. Tried out my new = Harbor Freight laser RPM gauge, but couldn't get it to work right. Ok, = Several minutes has gone by so I shut down to let it cool. Tried to = restart to no avail...so I decide to let the system cool for an extended = period. While waiting I decide to install my new B&C $230.00ish Regulator. = Already have one of these gems on the primary battery system and feel it = is time to install the new one that arrived a couple of weeks ago on the = Aux side of things, so I shut down all the systems, disconnect the = batteries, crimp some new connectors on some of the wires to fit the new = regulator get everything hooked back up and feel pretty good about the = night. Heh heh heh, silly me. A while has gone by and everything seems to have cooled off. I hold = my tongue just right and crank the engine and with some grace of the = engine Gawds the thing cranks up. Wait...what is this...the EM is = showing the RPM, but, but oh, damn it is flashing NOP. It was not doing = that before. Damn. Hmmmm, the Coolant temp and Oil temp are showing = exactly the same temp at 44 degrees....lets see if they start to = raise....Agggghhh, no, they are both stuck on 44 degrees F. Geeeez. I = know, lets try the "B" controller and see what happens......NOOOOOOOOO, = I switch to the "B" controller and the engine starts to die. Damn, damn, = damn. What the hell just happened????? Thoughts???????? Yes, I am disappointed in the evening that started on a positive note. = This (Monday) is my Friday night and I have the next two days to make = progress. If'n y'all have any easy answers for me I would love to hear = 'em as I would like to think the next two days would be steps forward as = opposed to just trying to get back to where I was. I did not even start = to troubleshoot yet as I was too frustrated and needed to walk away for = a while to sulk . Did I fry the "B": controller with a new/better = regulator. Everything was disconnected during the install and nothing = else changed....OTHER than the instrument panel shifted from its = temporary mount just before the second start. Hopin' for some insight and perspective before I go kick my dog when I = go to the hangar tomorrow (ok, I would never kick Winston he is really a = good dog, but y'all get the idea). As always, THANKS for your support. All the best, Chris Barber Houston ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C8787F.711E73E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ah, the frustration!  Most of us have been = there=20 (some more than once)
 
You mention two things - you installed the new = regulator=20 AND the instrument panel shifted from its original position just before = the=20 second start.  I strongly suspect that one of those actions may = well have=20 contributed to your EM going bananas and perhaps other problems.  I = would=20 check my grounds for certain.  If you do not have a good electrical = ground=20 then there is no voltage reference for the chips and they can = do all=20 sort of strange things.
 
I would think the easiest (could be wrong) thing = to do is=20 to disconnect the voltage regulator temporarily and see if that has any = effect,=20 next I would check to make certain I had a good electrical = ground.
 
Good luck
 
Ed
 
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary = Powered
Matthews,=20 NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.comhttp://www.andersonee.com
http:/= /members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda= /index.html
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Christopher Barber =
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 = 10:28=20 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] More = Musings...ah=20 screw it, just shoot me!

Got off work and happily headed to = the=20 hangar.  I was able to get it to start and stay pretty cool for a = while=20 as I played with the settings.  Switched from Controller A to B, = back to=20 A, disabled the Primary Injectors, the Secondary Injectors(in = succession=20 <g>), switched back to B, did the disable toggle = spring switch with=20 an expected drop in RPM...switch back to center and expected RPM = returns.=20 Throttled up and the RPM steadily increased without jumping around = until it=20 got to 4999 or so and went to zero and started jumping around above = 5000=20 rpm......no big deal yet as we discussed the possible noise issue = yesterday=20 and I have not checked the problems yet.  Used my laser temp = gauge to see=20 if the engine and the EM were kinda close, they were.  Tried out = my new=20 Harbor Freight laser RPM gauge, but couldn't get it to work = right.  Ok,=20 Several minutes has gone by so I shut down to let it cool.  Tried = to=20 restart to no avail...so I decide to let the system cool for an = extended=20 period.
 
While waiting I decide to install my = new B&C=20 $230.00ish Regulator.  Already have one of these gems on the = primary=20 battery system and feel it is time to install the new one that arrived = a=20 couple of weeks ago on the Aux side of things, so I shut down all the = systems,=20 disconnect the batteries, crimp some new connectors on some of the = wires to=20 fit the new regulator get everything hooked back up and feel pretty = good about=20 the night.  Heh heh heh, silly me.
 
A while has gone by and = everything seems to=20 have cooled off.  I hold my tongue just right and crank the = engine and=20 with some grace of the engine Gawds the thing cranks up.  = Wait...what is=20 this...the EM is showing the RPM, but, but oh, damn it is flashing = NOP. =20 It was not doing that before. Damn.  Hmmmm, the Coolant temp and = Oil temp=20 are showing exactly the same temp at 44 degrees....lets see if they = start to=20 raise....Agggghhh, no, they are both stuck on 44 degrees F. =20 Geeeez.  I know, lets try the "B" controller and see what=20 happens......NOOOOOOOOO, I switch to the "B" controller and the engine = starts=20 to die. Damn, damn, damn.  What the hell just happened?????  = Thoughts????????
 
Yes, I am disappointed in the evening = that=20 started on a positive note.  This (Monday) is my Friday night and = I have=20 the next two days to make progress.  If'n y'all have any easy = answers for=20 me I would love to hear 'em as I would like to think the next two days = would=20 be steps forward as opposed to just trying to get back to where I = was.  I=20 did not even start to troubleshoot yet as I was too frustrated and = needed to=20 walk away for a while to sulk <g>.  Did I fry the "B": = controller=20 with a new/better regulator.  Everything was disconnected during = the=20 install and nothing else changed....OTHER than the instrument panel = shifted=20 from its temporary mount just before the second start.
 
Hopin' for some insight and = perspective before I=20 go kick my dog when I go to the hangar tomorrow (ok, I would never = kick=20 Winston he is really a good dog, but y'all get the idea). As always, = THANKS=20 for your support.
 
All the best,
 
Chris Barber
Houston
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