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James Maher wrote:
Ernest,
Just wanted to make sure that you understood what I meant by installing the oil pump
lock washer the correct way.
On the lock washer there is a tab that protrudes into the center hole which is offset to one side.
When mine failed I found that the washer was installed with the center tab facing the nut
instead of facing the pump. This tab is supposed to fit in the keyway of the pump shaft facing the pump not the nut. Then the washer is bent over the flat of the nut after torquing.
Thank you, Jim. I didn't make that mistake, but I could have made one close to it. I have a second junkyard engine that I can pick parts from. I noticed that the tab was sheared off one of the washers in such a way as to be unnoticable if you didn't know to look for it.
I'm curious what materials and process you used to construct your "composite" oil pan?
Care to share with us?
I used JB-Weld as a an epoxy. You can thin it with one tablespoon of laquer thinner per two ounce mix. It is still thick at that, but with a little heat from a hair dryer, it will make a decent, if not very wet, layup. I had to put the epoxy down and make it squeeze up through the fabric from the bottom. I made a female mold with cardboard, lined with packaging tape. I cut the flange and drain bung from the steel oil pan. I included the temp sensor and oil-level bung with the flange. I wish I had left off the oil-level portion. I just used a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder. Rough sanded the flange to get it cleaned up and let the JB-Weld stick. The layup comes up from the bottom and wraps up over the flange, such that the layup is trapped between the flange and the mounting plate. I waxed the mounting plate and loosely bolted the oil-pan to while it was still wet. Gave me a nice mating surface.
After it was set, I cut a hole and glassed the drain plug bung into place. To get a smooth surface, I put a piece of 1mil plastic on top and squeegeed out the bubbles.
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http://www.ronpaultimeline.com
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