X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com ([69.147.85.87] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.0) with SMTP id 2755315 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 24 Feb 2008 10:30:03 -0500 Received: (qmail 27498 invoked by uid 60001); 24 Feb 2008 15:29:47 -0000 X-YMail-OSG: q6t8fmAVM1m_AzKL93lpjwXrLCd06Nud01vcFErNjJwvnqOD3hgvrismTEQIsYZGlpzlADepSuQ54WnMu67WWZSQoA-- Received: from [76.250.204.90] by web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Sun, 24 Feb 2008 07:29:47 PST Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 07:29:47 -0800 (PST) From: James Maher Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Rebuild kit To: Rotary motors in aircraft In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-879785414-1203866987=:26928" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-ID: <588991.26928.qm@web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> --0-879785414-1203866987=:26928 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Ernest, Just wanted to make sure that you understood what I meant by installing the oil pump lock washer the correct way. On the lock washer there is a tab that protrudes into the center hole which is offset to one side. When mine failed I found that the washer was installed with the center tab facing the nut instead of facing the pump. This tab is supposed to fit in the keyway of the pump shaft facing the pump not the nut. Then the washer is bent over the flat of the nut after torquing. I'm curious what materials and process you used to construct your "composite" oil pan? Care to share with us? Jim Ernest Christley wrote: James Maher wrote: > Ernest, > While you have the oil pump drive exposed it would be a good idea to assure > that the nut that holds the drive sprocket on the pump has the locking washer > installed properly. > Mine did not, and it only took about 8 hours of run time for the sprocket to fall off > and chew a hole in the cover. > Jim > I did that tonight, Jim. I combined parts from another 6-port to get the tolerances well under the spec. Picked the best washer and assured that everything is as tight as possible. Here's what it is looking like so far. I've scaled each of these down to fit in the email limit, but larger versions are on my website (which I just got up again). -- http://www.ronpaultimeline.com -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html --0-879785414-1203866987=:26928 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Ernest,
Just wanted to make sure that you understood what I meant by installing the oil pump
lock washer the correct way.
On the lock washer there is a tab that protrudes into the center hole which is offset to one side.
When mine failed I found that the washer was installed with the center tab facing the nut
instead of facing the pump. This tab is supposed to fit in the keyway of the pump shaft facing the pump not the nut. Then the washer is bent over the flat of the nut after torquing.
I'm curious what materials and process you used to construct your "composite" oil pan?
Care to share with us?
 
Jim
Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> wrote:
James Maher wrote:
> Ernest,
> While you have the oil pump drive exposed it would be a good idea to assure
> that the nut that holds the drive sprocket on the pump has the locking washer
> installed properly.
> Mine did not, and it only took about 8 hours of run time for the sprocket to fall off
> and chew a hole in the cover.
> Jim
>
I did that tonight, Jim. I combined parts from another 6-port to get
the tolerances well under the spec. Picked the best washer and assured
that everything is as tight as possible. Here's what it is looking like
so far. I've scaled each of these down to fit in the email limit, but
larger versions are on my website (which I just got up again).


--

http://www.ronpaultimeline.com



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