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I finally got the engine to
start everytime, with Tracy's help yesterday afternoon. You may
remember that I am the one who couldn't get my Renesis started. It just
flooded. Finally sent the EC-2 back to Tracy and he found a capacitor
missing on the unit that has to be there for the Renesis CAS.
When I got it back, with much trouble I was able to
get it started, but it was hit and miss. Sometimes I would drain the
battery a time or 2, foul the plugs, but when it ran, it ran pretty well.
Yesterday, after a couple of weeks of screwing with this thing, I called Tracy
again, discribing the situation and trying my best to be professional.
Tracy said that he found a new "glitch". Seems that only on the Renesis,
with the 2 wire CAS, when starting, there is so much electrical noise from the
starter and the solenoids, that on SOME airplanes this noise scrambles the
timing function and it is all over the place. When it happened to
scramble at the correct timing, I could start it, and when the
starter turned off, no noise and the EC-2 would time correctly. Maddening!
and that is being polite. It would be interesting to find out how Tracy
found the problem and tracked it down and came up with a simple fix. Oh
yeah. The fix! Went down to Radio Shack, bought a 1000 Ohm resister,
1/2 watt, installed it across the wires going to to the CAS. (I installed
mine inside Bob's D sub connector)
I pulled the plane out and it
started on the 2nd blade! I charged the battery some, turned it off and it
started again, and again. Nice feeling! Tracy of course will be the
last word on this. Thanks again Tracy! That's why we call it
Experimental! The engine sounds like a car and not too loud.
Also, B controller wouldn't run. Copyed A to B and it started
running too. 3 or 4 shots of primer at 35 degrees. No cold
start switch. Mixture at 2:00. No primer when warm.
As I mentioned, It's running
pretty well, but there is a mis, and it seems to be at all RPMs. I had it
before the latest fix too. Obviously I can't fly with it this way and the
Auto tune function doesn't work because the RPM is not steady enough above
2500 rpm. Any thoughts on why I have this mis and what the
solution might be? I assume that it is an ignition problem rather
than fuel, but my engine knowledge is pretty basic. Also,
I built my own intake manifold of 17.5 inches. Could this be
part of it, due to pressure waves, etc. One thing I
haven't looked at is switching the leading and
trailing coils. I did it, to see if it would still run on B
controller, but not to see if the mis would stop. I didn'nt notice it
stopping if it did. Sure do like the heat from the automobile heater
core. I will be increasing the outlet eyeball size.
Got rid of all my leaks.
This is so nice! Running for a while at 2600 rpm had 160 water and 165 oil
@ 91 psi. I will be taking the fuel system apart so I can drill and safety
wire everything. Cool air ducted to them. The Fuel pumps are very
noisy and my ANR headsets don't cancel that frequency out much.
Are there quieter pumps out there? I will try to sound deaden the back of
the pump mount and the back of the fire wall. Flo-scan fuel flow unit
not working. EGTs not working. Love the mixture moniter
function. Filled the right tank for the first time and switched
tanks. Fuel pressure dropped to about 25 psi and then when back to 32 with
out a hick-up. I have the Sube fuel pinhole bypass. All for
now. I look forward to your thoughts. Someone out there knows about
engine mis.
Don Walker
RV-8 Renesis
N113 Bravo Romeo
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