X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [216.162.174.5] (HELO pop5.greatbasin.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2c4) with ESMTP id 2681151 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 20 Jan 2008 21:41:34 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=216.162.174.5; envelope-from=drwalker@gbis.com Received: from yourca39e8756f (rno-dsl1a-171.gbis.net [216.82.142.171]) by pop5.greatbasin.net (8.13.8/8.13.8) with SMTP id m0L2ejcs007365 for ; Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:40:54 -0800 Message-ID: <000601c8647c$15cf2b40$ab8e52d8@yourca39e8756f> From: "Don Wallker" To: Subject: Not Flooding! Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 18:42:27 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0003_01C86439.06D56160" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.3138 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3198 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C86439.06D56160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rotarians, Thanks for all your replies of a couple of weeks ago. Tried most of = what you all suggested and still couldn't get it to start. It just kept = flooding. I kept pulling the plugs, blowing them out and trying to = start it. Frustrating is not the word for it. I did notice that if I = turned my controller to number 8 and hit the primer switch, all the = plugs would fire, the prop would move a few degrees and then my plugs = would no longer be wet, and when I charged the battery up, I could try = again. After much trying, I called Tracy and sent it in to him. It = turns out that there was a missing capacitor from the factory that = enables the unit to use the 2 wire Renesis CAS. It ran fine during = Tracy's initial test, but he used the 3 wire 13b CAS. He soldered on = the sensor, Now tests them all with both CASs and sent it back. Tracy, = thanks for the troubleshooting and the quick turn around. I learned way = more about this engine than I wanted to know, (but it is probably a good = thing in the long run). =20 I put it back in the plane and tried to fire it up. Could tell that it = was trying and not flooding as bad. Finally after a couple of battery = recharges, with the mixture very lean and no prime and the throttle full = open, it started, with difficulty, revved high before I pulled back the = throttle and it died. It shook a lot! Maybe more than a Lyc. With a = lot of trouble, I was able to get this to happen 3 times then called it = a day with a partial success. Came back the next day, to similar = results. After about the third time, in 3 hours, I thought to check to = see how hot the exhaust was. #1 was warm, but #2 rotor was stone cold. = Figured I was only starting on one rotor. One by one, switched out the = plugs, coils, injectors to no avail. I was just about to pack up and it = occurred to me that some one (Lynn?) said some thing about it not being = able to start if there is no compression and the way to get some, (if = the seals are sticking) is to add a little oil through the spark plug = holes. I did this to rotor #2, Started it lean with difficulty. It = started the same way and then suddenly took off to high revs and = smoothed way out. Smooth is nice! I backed off the throttle and no = matter what I did it died again. It ran for perhaps 15 seconds. Both = exhausts warm! I quit for the day. I went out for short time today, = got it to start like this again, with oil, but ran the battery down. = Packed it away and went flying to get current again. So I ask for your thoughts again. I seems that the seals are not = sealing on #2. How do I get them to loosen up? I assume they are just = stuck from sitting for a little over 3 years. I did turn the engine = over a couple of turns every couple of months and a lot more the last = few months. I suppose that #2 could have gotten something in it during = the building process ever though I was careful, but I am hoping that the = seals are just sticking and there is a way to un-stick them. I thought = that just running the engine would do it, but no joy. Your suggestions = please. I will continue plodding along. Envious of you who just turned it over and it ran. RV-8 completed Don Walker ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C86439.06D56160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Rotarians,
    Thanks for all your = replies of a=20 couple of weeks ago.  Tried most of what you all suggested and = still=20 couldn't get it to start.  It just kept flooding.  I kept = pulling the=20 plugs, blowing them out and trying to start it.  Frustrating is not = the=20 word for it.  I did notice that if I turned my controller to number = 8 and=20 hit the primer switch, all the plugs would fire, the prop would move a = few=20 degrees and then my plugs would no longer be wet, and when I charged the = battery=20 up, I could try again.  After much trying, I called Tracy and sent = it in to=20 him.  It turns out that there was a missing capacitor from the = factory that=20 enables the unit to use the 2 wire Renesis CAS.  It ran fine during = Tracy's=20 initial test, but he used the 3 wire 13b CAS.  He soldered on the = sensor,=20 Now tests them all with both CASs and sent it back.  Tracy, thanks = for the=20 troubleshooting and the quick turn around. I learned way more=20 about this engine than I wanted to know, (but it is probably a good = thing=20 in the long run). 
I put it back in the plane = and tried to fire=20 it up. Could tell that it was trying and not flooding as bad.  = Finally=20 after a couple of battery recharges, with the = mixture very lean=20 and no prime and the throttle full open, it started, with=20 difficulty, revved high before I pulled back the throttle = and it=20 died.  It shook a lot!  Maybe more than a Lyc.  = With a=20 lot of trouble, I was able to get this to happen 3 times then = called it a=20 day with a partial success.  Came back the next day, to similar=20 results.  After about the third time, in 3 hours, I = thought=20 to check to see how hot the exhaust was.  #1 was warm, but #2 = rotor=20 was stone cold.  Figured I was only starting on one = rotor.  One=20 by one, switched out the plugs, coils, injectors to no = avail.  I=20 was just about to pack up and it occurred to me that some one = (Lynn?) said=20 some thing about it not being able to start if there is no = compression=20 and the way to get some, (if the seals are sticking) is to add a = little oil=20 through the spark plug holes.  I did this to rotor #2,  = Started it=20 lean with difficulty.  It started the same way and then suddenly = took off=20 to high revs and smoothed way out. Smooth is nice!  I backed = off=20 the throttle and no matter what I did it died = again.  It ran=20 for perhaps 15 seconds.  Both exhausts warm!   I quit for the day.  I went out for short time = today, got it=20 to start like this again, with oil, but ran the battery down.  = Packed it=20 away and went flying to get current again.
   So I ask = for your thoughts=20 again.  I seems that the seals are not sealing on #2.  = How do I=20 get them to loosen up?  I assume they are just stuck from = sitting for=20 a little over 3 years.  I did turn the engine over a couple of = turns=20 every couple of months and a lot more the last few = months.  I=20 suppose that #2 could have gotten something in = it during the=20 building process ever though I was careful, but I am hoping that the=20 seals are just sticking and there is a way to un-stick them.  = I=20 thought that just running the engine would do it, but no=20 joy.  Your suggestions please.   I will = continue=20 plodding along.
 
Envious of you who just turned it = over and it=20 ran.
RV-8 completed
Don Walker
 
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