Al W;
I don’t disagree with your
concept, but I think there are other considerations.
The air volume number of 2 cups only
applies to your system. The 7 psig you mention implies that you only get a bit
over ½ cup expansion of coolant. In my system I know I get at least 6 times that
much.
In addition to the boiling point protection,
there is the consideration of pump cavitation. When I was designing my system,
I recall some pretty awful photos (on the ACRE list) of what cavitation
can do a pump impellor. Since we generally run at high rpm, it’s likely
an issue.
And “ideal” pressure depends
on where you measure it, and where the cap pressure is. There is likely at
least a few psi difference between the pump inlet and the outlet. If the 7 psig
(gauge pressure) you mention is on the outlet side, then it may be close to 0 psig
at the inlet, and considerably lower behind the vane in the pump. At 180F water
flashes to steam bubbles at about -7 psig (8 psia), so there could be a have
high probability of cavitation. And that’s at sea level. If the 7 psig
is at the pump inlet, you’d be a bit better off.
That’s why I designed my system to
have a ‘cap pressure’ of 23 psig on the pump inlet side, why I have
no air under that cap, and why I have a pressure cap on the expansion bottle;
so even when the coolant temp is decreasing, and the cap pressure is 0 psig,
there is still some positive pressure at the pump inlet. Of course designing
for this consideration takes care of the boiling protection as well, and
provides some margin for altitude, since we generally fly considerably above
sea level. It has worked fine for me so far. Concerning masking a compression
leak, I think whether the pressure is 7 or 27 it is negligible compared to
combustion pressures.
I don’t know that this is
necessary, right, wrong, or ideal; but it made sense to me.
Al G
There's
one coolant design that's substantially better than the others. I discovered it
when doing severe ground testing...deliberately overheating my engine.
Three
basic requirements:
1)
Place your radiator cap and reservoir above engine. The higher the better. This
allows trapped air in system to rise out of the flow and stay there.
2)
Put a 24 psi cap on the system. You can throw away your overflow stuff. Not
needed.
3)
Always keep around 2 cups of air under the cap. This is the key item. It brings
a big safety advantage. It allows you to use coolant pressure to predict well
in advance how good your system is doing. It minimizes pressure. Mine never
exceeds 7 psi. But if something goes wrong, then my pressure rises and I gain
boilover protection due to the increase in system pressure.
-al
wick
Cozy IV