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Bill, we have used two different methods to test. One probable isn't that
safe because you need to have the engine running, that was to squirt water
on all the joints and if you have a leak the engine will momentarily change
speed if the water is sucked into the leak. The other is to cover or plug
the intake and exhaust with a piece of old inner tube and hose clamp like
you were checking the exhaust for leaks, use the vacuum supply port to add 3
or 4 psi of air pressure, spray some soapy water on all the joint, leave set
a few minutes and any leak should be foaming really tiny bubbles. JohnD
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:26 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Flooded Plugs
I will try and combine several responses here.
Yep, I know that I could not have had 257 HP. For one thing, the RPM
would have had to be up around 8K to develop that much, and for sure I
would have turned that prop at higher than 4200, BUT it still looked
good on the EM-2! :>)
I have been wondering how to tell if I have a leak in my intake
manifold. Since I built it, a leak is a definite possibility. I just
haven't figured out a way to test it without building some elaborate
fixture. I assume that since the EC-2 operates off of manifold
pressure, it will correct for a small leak. (add fuel to compensate for
the additional air??)
The plugs that I sand blasted were the Iridium plugs. They are pretty
open and can be inspected prior to install for sand. I agree that sand
blasting the RX-7 plugs would be a mistake since the 4 grounds have the
bottom of the plug almost closed off and they could not be inspected.
What is the current accepted technique for cleaning plugs?
Bill B
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