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Hi Chad,
Appears there are many more ways than one to skin this cat.
I've read of some using the Hot plate and one using a soup mug heater - amazing what will work.
Appreciate the tips on soldering, I'll work on them. I find 0805 tiny enough , no 0603 or 0402 thank you {:>).
Part of my personal problem is I only have one good eye, which means no binocular depth perception and no paraxial. It can be a bit of challenge to get a soldering iron and piece of solder and a component all at the same point in space at the same time {:>).
That is one reason why I stopped building any circuits but those I could use a PC board for.
The oven worked fine - but as you pointed out, you do have to move the board to the oven risking shifting some of the components or heaven forbid dropping the board.
I've got two more boards to try. I may decided to iron solder the 0.25mm socket as the plastic stencil simply does not have the fidelity for the smaller traces. That is the only component that failed due to the solder bridges - and of course I can find my wick to try and pull the solder out. Got some out with a sucker but not enough.
Thanks again for the soldering tips.
Ed
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Robinson" <crj@lucubration.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:32 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
Ed, try an electric hot plate. It's even easier to do - you can even put the components on the board and then heat it up without having to move it into the oven, risking knocking something off.
If you get your temperature profile right, and use the right amount of solder, the parts should self-align. Also, believe it or not, hand-soldering these parts isn't as hard as it sounds. With a fine-tip iron (I file mine to a sharp point) you just touch the iron to the device's leg, and tap the solder there very quickly. It makes a quick, tidy joint, and is almost as fast. I've been able to do 0.25 pitch and 0603 parts this way. It sounds like a pain, but 99% of the work is in the placement anyway. Tapping an iron on there quickly is a piece of cake.
If you use a good resin, and be sure to remove it with a cleaner, you can make this even easier. You just put a dab of resin where you want solder - a toothpick is perfect. Then tap a well-tinned iron to the joint between leg and board, and the resin will suck the solder right off the iron, exactly the right amount. I get perfect-looking joints this way, and no mucking about with stencils and solder paste.
Regards,
Chad
Ed Anderson wrote:
My highly advanced GE convection reflow oven cost $38.99 and that part of the experiment work perfectly. Besides, I don't have room for one that size, Mike {:>)
The most difficult part of the experiment was placing the components without rubbing the solder paste off the pad and knocking another component askew. I now understand why they talked about "arm rests". It doesn't take much to get misalign.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Michael LaFleur <mailto:mike.lafleur@sbcglobal.net>
*To:* Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
*Sent:* Thursday, February 22, 2007 8:40 PM
*Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
This reflow oven failed to sell at auction today for $750.
Mike LaFleur
----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com
<mailto:eanderson@carolina.rr.com>>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net
<mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:32:32 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Cooked Board - Really!
Well, today was the day. Got the missing SMD component in and I
cooked my first SMD PC board in my new toaster oven.
The results were not totally successful, but satisfactory in that
it didn't come out too bad for a first try and I learned several
things.
Here are a few photos for those of you interested.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com <mailto:eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
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