X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 2 [X] Return-Path: Received: from [68.202.132.19] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WEBUSER 5.1.6) with HTTP id 1856335 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 22 Feb 2007 16:34:40 -0500 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Cooked Board - Really!IV To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser v5.1.6 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2007 16:34:40 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: References: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1";format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Ed, My friend Jim told me that when he had a single component to deal with on an otherwise successfully populated board he would use a typical small 20W soldering iron for the repair. He wound a piece of .010 stainless wire around the tip (spring-style) and let the tag end extend from the end of the tip 1/2" or so, to give himself a .010 tip for dealing with those SM pads. I'm sure you've already considered a solution to your forgotten diode, but this came to mind when I saw the photo and thought I'd share it. "Ed Anderson" wrote: On the first solder run, I had too much pressure and while the area of the solder paste deposit was excellent (even on the 0.25mm socket lands), there was too little quantity of solder to hold the hold the components in position. The second solder run I used less squeegee pressure and it left (did not scope it out) a large volume of solder (too much in the case of the 0.25mm socket lands and they bridged). Solder wick may be able to get the excess solder out. I have two more boards to experiment with - hopefully by the end I will have it down. Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html