X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from web53509.mail.yahoo.com ([206.190.37.70] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1c.2) with SMTP id 1283126 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 19 Jul 2006 07:30:25 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=206.190.37.70; envelope-from=plumberben@yahoo.com Received: (qmail 4353 invoked by uid 60001); 19 Jul 2006 11:29:37 -0000 DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding; b=BEvGhNp58vdXSzrZgONCO4cIOjhJFqAKricliqJLnCG6wXa63ybR87RskVVrEf7CiFH7L6tfZ1o8vEiPGGkn1aZB3sASwXNtgk91bNNbfxFD4gVYEVqes3DWqhYkuCAGSvuK8qyWBEh3IzjoVR1HLMMbz32PcL0Pkbo/e+zl9ug= ; Message-ID: <20060719112937.4351.qmail@web53509.mail.yahoo.com> Received: from [12.40.93.243] by web53509.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Wed, 19 Jul 2006 04:29:37 PDT Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 04:29:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Ben Schneider Subject: Renesis Oil Inlet To: Rotary motors in aircraft In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-1319331742-1153308577=:3636" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit --0-1319331742-1153308577=:3636 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Bill, Take a small torch, and heat the block around the oil fill tube, and work on the tube with a twisiting motion with a pair of channel locks, or vise grips. (takes a bit of heat before it will move, but once it does, don't stop moving it. You can also take a hammer and bump the vise grips from the bottom as you twist.) It takes a while to get the block hot enough, but I really don't think I got it hot enough to do any damage. Didn't even get hot enough to discolor the powder coating. But it does require a bit of patience. To install a twist on cap, I took the fill tube off of a 12a, and cut off just the thread and flared portion, and TIG welded on a short piece of 1 inch EMT electrical conduit. (about two inches, yours may vary) and with just a bit of sanding around the conduit, it comes to a press fit into the hole left in the block. My plan from there (which I haven't gotten around to) is once it is pressed (read 'driven in with a rubber mallet') I am going to put a bit of JB weld in the little grove left around the joint. (you will see what I mean once you get the old one out) That method worked well for me. Ben Schneider RV7 Renesis nearing 1st engine start Advice worth exactly what was paid for it. --0-1319331742-1153308577=:3636 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Bill,

  Take a small torch, and heat the block around the oil fill tube, and work on the tube with a twisiting motion with a pair of channel locks, or vise grips. (takes a bit of heat before it will move, but once it does, don't stop moving it. You can also take a hammer and bump the vise grips from the bottom as you twist.) It takes a while to get the block hot enough, but I really don't think I got it hot enough to do any damage. Didn't even get hot enough to discolor the powder coating. But it does require a bit of patience. To install a twist on cap, I took the fill tube off of a 12a, and cut off just the thread and flared portion, and TIG welded on a short piece of 1 inch EMT electrical conduit. (about two inches, yours may vary) and with just a bit of sanding around the conduit, it comes to a press fit into the hole left in the block. My plan from there (which I haven't gotten around to) is once it is pressed (read 'driven in with a rubber mallet') I am going to put a bit of JB weld in the little grove left around the joint. (you will see what I mean once you get the old one out)  That method worked well for me.

Ben Schneider RV7  Renesis nearing 1st engine start
Advice worth exactly what was paid for it.
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