X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d20.mx.aol.com ([205.188.139.136] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.6) with ESMTP id 918303 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 09 Jan 2006 00:46:26 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.139.136; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r6.3.) id q.1d7.4c7225de (25098) for ; Mon, 9 Jan 2006 00:45:38 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <1d7.4c7225de.30f35282@aol.com> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 00:45:38 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Frozen coolant... To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1136785538" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5022 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1136785538 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:36:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, wdleonard@gmail.com writes: I suspect the radiator is cracked somewhere. Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Can this do damage to the engine block? The radiator is custom and will not be cheap to replace, and it will take a while, and the plane is an 8 hour drive away... :-( The leak you can see is the best kind. Aluminum radiators can be TIG welded or epoxied and still work fine. If it were me, I would strip off the front cover and inspect the core support plugs in the front iron. They usually push out first in a hard freeze. That dumps coolant into the oil pan and destroys the bearings in just a few seconds at power. If a plug has moved, take it out. Install a new plug. If you are not sure about any of them, do them all. On piston engines, we used to drill and tap a hole beside the core support holes and install a 10-32 socket head screw and a washer that extended over the edge of the hole on two sides. Threading the hole and installing a plug would work also. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1136785538 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:36:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 wdleonard@gmail.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>I=20 suspect the radiator is cracked somewhere. Anyone have any experienc= e=20 with this sort of thing? Can this do damage to the engine block?&nbs= p;=20 The radiator is custom and will not be cheap to replace, and it will take=20= a=20 while, and the plane is an 8 hour drive away... :-(

The leak you can see is the best kind. Aluminum radiators can be TIG we= lded=20 or epoxied and still work fine.

If it were me, I would strip off the front cover and inspect the core=20 support plugs in the front iron. They usually push out first in a hard freez= e.=20 That dumps coolant into the oil pan and destroys the bearings in just a few=20 seconds at power.

If a plug has moved, take it out. Install a new plug. If you are not su= re=20 about any of them, do them all.

On piston engines, we used to drill and tap a hole beside the core supp= ort=20 holes and install a 10-32 socket head screw and a washer that extended over=20= the=20 edge of the hole on two sides. Threading the hole and installing a plug woul= d=20 work also.

Lynn E. Hanover

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