Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.66] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.1) with ESMTP id 2533938 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 19 Aug 2003 22:39:58 -0400 Received: from rad ([68.212.14.21]) by imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.27 201-253-122-126-127-20021220) with ESMTP id <20030820023957.PNJW1849.imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rad> for ; Tue, 19 Aug 2003 22:39:57 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: Better news- from Crazy Rusty Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 21:39:59 -0500 Message-ID: <011801c366c4$598dbc30$0201a8c0@rad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0119_01C3669A.70B7B430" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.4510 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0119_01C3669A.70B7B430 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rusty (I don't have no stinkin' light on my EC-2 panel either) =20 =20 Bet, you do. It in the tip of the program button,you push to store new settings into the CPU memory (presume you are somewhat familar with that button by this time {:>), its rather dim and may not be visible in = direct sunlight.=20 -------------------------- =20 Maybe this is like that tree in the forest question. If it's too dim to = be seen, is it still a light :-)=20 =20 I'm happy to be providing you all with such amusement. I'll have you = know that I don't NEED this list to drive me crazy. I do that quite well all = by myself :-) So now, without further adue, I present today's log entry.=20 =20 Rusty (it's ok to talk to yourself, just don't answer... OK I won't) =20 =20 =20 =20 8-19-03 / 8 hours / 1349 total =20 I went to the airport this afternoon, and tested the vacuum/pressure = gauges. With 15 psi on the Mityvac, the Boost gauge in the plane reads 17, and = the Sears automotive test gauge reads 14.5. 5 psi of pressure reads just = that on all the gauges. Yesterday, I had the Sears gauge on one vacuum port, = and the boost gauge on the other. It's clear now that my 2-3 difference = between ports, was actually between gauges, and the ports are the same (as they should be). I went ahead and T-ed them together anyway. =20 =20 First the tach- I started by adding enough wire for about 30 more wraps = (34 total) around the plug wire. This read exactly double of the real RPM. = I removed 10 wraps (24 total), and still double. Put copper tape around = tach signal wire, still double. Removed 10 more (14 total)- reads OK low, = but wanders at higher rpm. Removed 5 wraps (9 total)- still OK low, and wandering high. Removed all the extra wire that I added, left 4 turns = of the original wire, and wrapped copper tape around the signal wire. I = also clipped a ground wire to the tape, and to the airframe. This seems to = work. Of course there wasn't enough direct sun to even attempt to use my = optical tach, but the rpm increased and decreased very consistently, so it = certainly appears to be working. =20 =20 As for the controller and tuning- I started the day with controller A = still working fairly well. Idle is currently 1400 rpm, and the boost gauge = reads 16 in of vacuum, which we now suspect is really 14 inches of vacuum, or = 16" MAP. As you can see, this is mighty close to the 15" MAP transition = point. It's not surprising that sometimes idle seems to be above, below, or in = the middle of the transition point. =20 =20 I tried using the mityvac to suck the MAP to the controller down to a = point where it would be below the normal engine operating range. This would = have provided plenty of amusement for anyone watching, as I tried to jockey = the mixture knob to keep the confused and unhappy engine running. Gave up = on this. Next, I tried something that Tracy had mentioned (not to be = confused with "recommended" ). I set the controller on mode 7, ran up the throttle, then closed it suddenly. When the vacuum sucked down to 20 inches, I hit the button (the one with the invisible light). This = worked just fine, and the engine runs OK with all 4 injectors at idle. I had = one controller set up normally, and the other with the transition at 20 = inches, and could tell that the normal controller had a slightly more even idle. Mind you, it wasn't that significant, but clearly there was a = difference. With this in mind, I filed this idea away as a last resort. =20 =20 Next, I tried some calibration, and kept running into problems at around idle, so I decided that I needed to move the transition point away from = idle by a couple inches of vacuum. Since Bruce's porting job left me with an idle vacuum of 16" MAP, I decided to set the transition to 2 inches = above idle. This put me at 18" MAP, rather than 15" that comes standard. = THIS WAS THE KEY! =20 =20 Once I changed the transition point to 18", I was able to tune both controllers, and everything worked as expected. I can't even feel the transition point now, so there must be plenty of range in the EC-2 to accommodate the sub-spec MSD injectors. I can operate the engine from = idle, to full throttle (3psi boost), and back to idle without anything = terrible happening. This is good enough to fly! =20 Now that my tach seems to be working, it appears that I get 4550 rpm at = 30" MAP, and 4750 rpm at 36" map (3 psi). This is just a wee bit lower than = I'd like to see it, though certainly enough power for the RV-3. I still = have to decide if I want to repitch the prop a bit for something closer to 5500 = rpm at sea level power. =20 I'll probably try the new MSD injectors that I ordered, and see if they = seem closer than the ones that I have to the stock Mazda 550's. Either way, = I'll eventually send the current injectors to have them tested, along with = the 4 stock Mazda 550's that I have left. =20 =20 Aside from these issues, my transponder will be certified Friday, and = the chute will have returned from repack. I'll be getting an hour or so in = a friend's RV-8, so Sat afternoon, or Sun could be go for first flight. =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0119_01C3669A.70B7B430 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Rusty (I = don't have no=20 stinkin' light on my EC-2 panel either)     
 
 Bet, you do.  It in the tip of the = program=20 button,you push to store new settings into the CPU memory (presume you = are=20 somewhat familar with that button by this time {:>), its rather dim = and may=20 not be visible in direct sunlight. 
--------------------------
 
Maybe this is like that tree in the forest question. =20 If it's too dim to be seen, is it still a light :-)=20
 
I'm happy to be providing you all with such = amusement.   I'll=20 have you know that I don't NEED this list to drive me crazy.  I do = that=20 quite well all by myself :-)  So now, without further adue, I = present=20 today's log entry.
 
Rusty (it's ok to talk to yourself, just don't answer... OK I=20 won't)
 
 
 

 

 8-19-03  / =20 8 hours  /  1349 total

 

I went to the airport this afternoon, and tested the=20 vacuum/pressure gauges.  = With 15 psi=20 on the Mityvac, the Boost gauge in the plane reads 17, and the Sears = automotive=20 test gauge reads 14.5.  5 = psi of=20 pressure reads just that on all the gauges.  Yesterday, I had the Sears = gauge on one=20 vacuum port, and the boost gauge on the other.  It’s clear now that my = 2-3 difference=20 between ports, was actually between gauges, and the ports are the same = (as they=20 should be).  I went ahead = and T-ed=20 them together anyway. =20

 

First the tach- I started by adding enough wire for = about 30 more=20 wraps (34 total) around the plug wire. =20 This read exactly double of the real RPM.  I removed 10 wraps (24 total), = and still=20 double.  Put copper tape = around tach=20 signal wire, still double.  = Removed=20 10 more (14 total)- reads OK low, but wanders at higher rpm.  Removed 5 wraps (9 total)- = still OK low,=20 and wandering high.  = Removed all the=20 extra wire that I added, left 4 turns of the original wire, and wrapped = copper=20 tape around the signal wire.  = I also=20 clipped a ground wire to the tape, and to the airframe.  This seems to work.  Of course there wasn’t = enough direct sun=20 to even attempt to use my optical tach, but the rpm increased and = decreased very=20 consistently, so it certainly appears to be working. 

 

As for the controller and tuning- I started the day with = controller A still working fairly well. =20 Idle is currently 1400 rpm, and the boost gauge reads 16 in of = vacuum,=20 which we now suspect is really 14 inches of vacuum, or 16” = MAP.  As you can see, this is mighty = close to=20 the 15” MAP transition point.  It’s=20 not surprising that sometimes idle seems to be above, below, or in the = middle of=20 the transition point. =20

 

I tried using the mityvac to suck the MAP to the = controller down=20 to a point where it would be below the normal engine operating = range.  This would have provided = plenty of=20 amusement for anyone watching, as I tried to jockey the mixture knob to = keep the=20 confused and unhappy engine running. =20 Gave up on this.  = Next, I=20 tried something that Tracy = had=20 mentioned (not to be confused with “recommended” = <G>).  I set the controller on mode = 7, ran up=20 the throttle, then closed it suddenly. =20 When the vacuum sucked down to 20 inches, I hit the button (the = one with=20 the invisible light).  = This worked=20 just fine, and the engine runs OK with all 4 injectors at idle.  I had one controller set up = normally,=20 and the other with the transition at 20 inches, and could tell that the = normal=20 controller had a slightly more even idle. =20 Mind you, it wasn’t that significant, but clearly there was = a=20 difference.  With this in = mind, I=20 filed this idea away as a last resort. =20

 

Next, I tried some calibration, and kept running into = problems at=20 around idle, so I decided that I needed to move the transition point = away from=20 idle by a couple inches of vacuum. =20 Since Bruce’s porting job left me with an idle vacuum of = 16” MAP, I=20 decided to set the transition to 2 inches above idle.  This put me at 18” MAP, = rather than 15”=20 that comes standard.  THIS = WAS THE=20 KEY! 

 

Once I=20 changed the transition point to 18”, I was able to tune both = controllers, and=20 everything worked as expected.  = I=20 can’t even feel the transition point now, so there must be plenty = of range in=20 the EC-2 to accommodate the sub-spec MSD injectors.  I can operate the engine from = idle, to=20 full throttle (3psi boost), and back to idle without anything terrible=20 happening.  This is good = enough to=20 fly!

 

Now=20 that my tach seems to be working, it appears that I get 4550 rpm at = 30” MAP, and=20 4750 rpm at 36” map (3 psi).  This=20 is just a wee bit lower than I’d like to see it, though certainly = enough power=20 for the RV-3.  I still = have to=20 decide if I want to repitch the prop a bit for something closer to 5500 = rpm at=20 sea level power.

 

I’ll probably try the new MSD injectors that I = ordered, and see if=20 they seem closer than the ones that I have to the stock Mazda = 550’s.  Either way, I’ll = eventually send the=20 current injectors to have them tested, along with the 4 stock Mazda = 550’s that I=20 have left.  =

 

Aside from these issues, my transponder will be = certified Friday,=20 and the chute will have returned from repack.  I’ll be getting an hour = or so in a=20 friend’s RV-8, so Sat afternoon, or Sun could be go for first = flight. =20

 
 
 
 
 
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