Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #26019
From: James Brewer <alpha@concordnc.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Rotary Diagnosis please
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:23:28 -0400
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Ed,  When you pinched the coolant o-ring how did you discover you had a problem?
Did you get coolant into the chamber?  Was it leaking before or after you
started the engine?  Why did you think it was the o-ring versus something else?
Did you mean you had all the pieces and then put the engine together in 30 min. putting the front cover on in the process?  That is a great tip on lifting the eccentric
shaft......the wife didn't like getting all that oil on her hands.;-)     I may have
to come take lessons to improve my speed as I have several other RX7s that need
rebuilds.  Jim (rookie rebuilder)

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 23:29:51 -0400, Ed Anderson wrote:
 Actually, I have  put one back together in 30 minutes.  But, I did
 not have to take off the front cover and  I already had all the
 seals inplace and the engine back together.  When I took it out and
 put it on the plane and put coolant in it, it leaked.  Found I had
 one of the outer coolant "O" rings fall out and get pitched between
 rotor and side housing.  It took me 2 hours to get it off the
 aircraft and probably 20 minutes to take it apart.  It took
 another 30 minutes to put it back together after replacing the "O"
 ring.  Off with the flywheel nut, counterweigh bolts, tension bolts
 and it comes apart, just about that quickly.  The hardest thing I
 find to do working by myself is lift the e shaft and slip the
 center housing over the front lobe while hoping none of the coolant
 O rings drop down from it.  I find what worked best for me is a 2x4
 under the pulley end of the E shaft and that 2x4 sitting on the end
 of another one with a block under it.  I step on the one using it
 as a lever and that pushes the e shaft up far enough to complete
 the job.

 Yes, Jim,  it does get faster the more times you do it.  Just hope
 you remain slow {:>)

 Ed


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: "James Brewer" <alpha@concordnc.com>
 To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> Sent:
 Friday, August 19, 2005 9:58 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Rotary
 Diagnosis please


 Thanks, Kelly.  I have a manual and I measured the oil seals but I
 may have missed measuring the height.  These rotary engines are
 simple with subtle complexities.  I think Ed said he could build on
 in 30 minutes, of course he's
 had experience.;-)  Maybe after I've rebuilt this one several times
 I'll get it right. :-(

 Jim


 On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 01:47:37 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:
 Jim,
 My Mazda factory manual says the oil seals should be .220 to .228
 in height, the width limit of the oil seal lip (shiney part) is
 .020 and the protrusion limit (installed in the grooves) should
 be .020 minimum..........Get a manual if you do not have one
 already.........It will have all the engine tech data and will
 help you make heads or tails of what I just stated.........These
 little metal seals keep oil out of the engine and are very
 critical..........FWIW -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2


 -------------- Original message from James Brewer
 <alpha@concordnc.com>: --------------


 Yes, I replace the oil seal o-rings. Yeah, it was smoking when
 I got it. Very low
 compression on one rotor. Replaced parts with Tracy's overhaul
 kit. Bearings in rotors were not
 replace but looked ok and measured fine. New apex seals and
 side seals. I didn't replace the metal oil rings on the rotors
 as they looked fine. How critical are these anyway and what are
 the symptoms of failure/damage?

 Jim


 On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 20:49:27 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:

 Jim,
 You did replace the rotor oil seal O-rings I presume ?? Was
 it smoking like that before overhaul ?? -- Kelly Troyer Dyke
 Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2


 -------------- Original message from James Brewer
 : --------------


 Guys,
 I need some help on my recent 13B rebuild for my '87 RX7.
 Thanks to all previous replies on the crank angle
 sensor/TDC settings I was able to get it to crank and run.
 Now for the diagnosis of my present problem: Engine starts
 and idles with a slight
 amount of smoking. As the engine warms up and I increase
 the RPM I get a considerable amount of smoke. The smoke
 does not smell "sweet" like it is burning coolant but maybe
 it smells different in a rotary. Smoke is white not black.
 With limited running
 I haven't noticed a drop in the coolant or coolant in the
 oil. Before I pull the engine and go thru it again I would
 like to pinpoint the

 t;> problem before teardown. I thought I was careful about
 the o-

 rings. I used Hylomar for the grooves as per Bruce
 Turrentine's tape to keep them in the grooves. Am I getting
 oil past the oil o-
 rings? Other sources or causes for my smoke? Tests I need
 to run? Help! Ed, Lynn, Leon or others.


 Jim Brewer
 Albemarle, NC


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