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Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 03:41:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael LaFleur <mike.lafleur@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Engine Not Starting
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-1000441@logan.com>
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Hot air?

Nothing could be further from the truth.

Oh, I get it. It was sarcastic.

You had me worried there for a moment.

Mike L.

--- WALTER B KERR <jbker@juno.com> wrote:

> Hi Roger,
> 
> A breath of fresh air on the list, someone actually
> doing something other
> than blowing hot air about FEMA or peer reveiws :>)
> 
> I do not understand the spark out of the engine and
> possibly none inside
> unless the cranking compression is making it harder
> to actually arc.
> Maybe someone else understands it.
> 
> Thanks for sharing an experience!
> Bernie Kerr, 40 hours on NA 13B/Vans 9A and down for
> some updates and
> time away from the hangar
>
---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:53:49 -0500 "Rogers, Bob J."
> <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
> writes:
> > I would like to share my recent experience of not
> being to start my
> > Mazda 13B rotary engine and the solution.
> > 
> > I am building a Mustang II kitplane, powered by a
> 1987 Mazda Turbo
> > Engine.  The engine was rebuilt by me and
> installed on the airframe
> > several months ago.  It has an aftermarket 60-1
> Turbo from 
> > Turbonetics.
> > The ignition and fuel controller, as well as the
> propeller 
> > reduction
> > unit, are from Tracy Crook's Real World Solutions.
>  My first engine
> > start was several months ago and I have started
> the engine and run 
> > it at
> > idle and up to 2,500 rpm for up to 20 minutes at a
> time (all on the
> > ground) on numerous occasions.  The engine has
> been starting and 
> > running
> > very nicely.  The radiator and oil cooler seem to
> be working very 
> > well
> > even without any air flowing over them, because
> the engine does not
> > overheat on the ground for quite some time (up to
> 20 minutes).  I do 
> > not
> > have a thermostat in the water cooling system, but
> the oil cooler
> > thermostat is still in place.  I have not attached
> my propeller 
> > yet.
> > 
> > About a month ago, I had some trouble starting the
> engine and it 
> > may
> > have gotten flooded. From that time until this
> last weekend, I could 
> > not
> > get the engine to start.  I removed the plugs,
> wiped them off and 
> > dried
> > them, and cranked the engine to blow out all
> excess fuel.  The 
> > plugs
> > were practically new with only a few hours of
> ground running on 
> > them.
> > They are very clean looking, but with some black
> around the ceramic
> > portion deep within the plug.  Each plug fired
> when tested outside 
> > of
> > the engine.  These are stock NGK plugs as
> specified for the engine.
> > 
> > I tested each and every component of the engine
> electrical and fuel
> > system and found everything to be working
> properly.  I put in new 
> > fuel,
> > checked the injectors for leaks and proper firing
> and confirmed that 
> > I
> > s getting 40 psi fuel pressure to the injectors. 
> Timing was checked
> > and re-set.  The engine still would not start.  I
> could not even get 
> > one
> > little ignition event.  Battery was fully charged
> and I used a 
> > jumper
> > cable from my car as a booster.  Cranking speed
> was at its maximum.
> > Compression was 85 - 90 psi for each rotor face.
> > 
> > In frustration, I e-mailed Tracy Crook, who
> suggested that I try 
> > starter
> > fluid and NEW plugs after I cranked the engine
> with plugs out to 
> > remove
> > any excess fuel.  The starter fluid did no good
> when I tried the 
> > process
> > with my original (really clean looking and dry)
> plugs.
> > 
> > However, when I took Tracy's advice and put in NEW
> plugs, the 
> > engine
> > started immediately and ran perfectly.  I do not
> understand how a
> > flooded engine can make the plugs incapable of
> firing in the engine 
> > when
> > they fire just fine outside of the engine,
> especially when all of 
> > the
> > excess fuel has been blown out of the engine by
> cranking with the 
> > plugs
> > out.  Maybe someone on the list can explain how
> this can happen.  It 
> > is
> > a mystery to me.
> > 
> > The lessons I learned are:
> > 
> > 1.          Listen to what Tracy says.  He knows
> what he is talking 
> > about.
> > 
> > 2.        When you flood your engine and cannot
> get it to start 
> > again
> > after trying all the usual tricks, go ahead and
> spend a few extra 
> > bucks
> > for a NEW set of plugs.  For some reason, the new
> plugs make all 
> > the
> > difference.
> > 
> > 3.        Always stop the engine by turning off
> the fuel pump, so 
> > that
> > there is no fuel pressure in the line.  Otherwise,
> unburned fuel 
> > may
> > leak from the still pressurized injectors into the
> rotors and 
> > increase
> > the chances of hard starting or flooding the next
> time you try to 
> > start
> > the engine.
> > 
> > >>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > >>  Archive:  
> http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> > 
> > 
> 
> >>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >>  Archive:  
> http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>