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To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 13:04:40 -0400
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Engine Not Starting
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From: WALTER B KERR <jbker@juno.com>

Hi Roger,

A breath of fresh air on the list, someone actually doing something other
than blowing hot air about FEMA or peer reveiws :>)

I do not understand the spark out of the engine and possibly none inside
unless the cranking compression is making it harder to actually arc.
Maybe someone else understands it.

Thanks for sharing an experience!
Bernie Kerr, 40 hours on NA 13B/Vans 9A and down for some updates and
time away from the hangar
---------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:53:49 -0500 "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
writes:
> I would like to share my recent experience of not being to start my
> Mazda 13B rotary engine and the solution.
> 
> I am building a Mustang II kitplane, powered by a 1987 Mazda Turbo
> Engine.  The engine was rebuilt by me and installed on the airframe
> several months ago.  It has an aftermarket 60-1 Turbo from 
> Turbonetics.
> The ignition and fuel controller, as well as the propeller 
> reduction
> unit, are from Tracy Crook's Real World Solutions.  My first engine
> start was several months ago and I have started the engine and run 
> it at
> idle and up to 2,500 rpm for up to 20 minutes at a time (all on the
> ground) on numerous occasions.  The engine has been starting and 
> running
> very nicely.  The radiator and oil cooler seem to be working very 
> well
> even without any air flowing over them, because the engine does not
> overheat on the ground for quite some time (up to 20 minutes).  I do 
> not
> have a thermostat in the water cooling system, but the oil cooler
> thermostat is still in place.  I have not attached my propeller 
> yet.
> 
> About a month ago, I had some trouble starting the engine and it 
> may
> have gotten flooded. From that time until this last weekend, I could 
> not
> get the engine to start.  I removed the plugs, wiped them off and 
> dried
> them, and cranked the engine to blow out all excess fuel.  The 
> plugs
> were practically new with only a few hours of ground running on 
> them.
> They are very clean looking, but with some black around the ceramic
> portion deep within the plug.  Each plug fired when tested outside 
> of
> the engine.  These are stock NGK plugs as specified for the engine.
> 
> I tested each and every component of the engine electrical and fuel
> system and found everything to be working properly.  I put in new 
> fuel,
> checked the injectors for leaks and proper firing and confirmed that 
> I
> s getting 40 psi fuel pressure to the injectors.  Timing was checked
> and re-set.  The engine still would not start.  I could not even get 
> one
> little ignition event.  Battery was fully charged and I used a 
> jumper
> cable from my car as a booster.  Cranking speed was at its maximum.
> Compression was 85 - 90 psi for each rotor face.
> 
> In frustration, I e-mailed Tracy Crook, who suggested that I try 
> starter
> fluid and NEW plugs after I cranked the engine with plugs out to 
> remove
> any excess fuel.  The starter fluid did no good when I tried the 
> process
> with my original (really clean looking and dry) plugs.
> 
> However, when I took Tracy's advice and put in NEW plugs, the 
> engine
> started immediately and ran perfectly.  I do not understand how a
> flooded engine can make the plugs incapable of firing in the engine 
> when
> they fire just fine outside of the engine, especially when all of 
> the
> excess fuel has been blown out of the engine by cranking with the 
> plugs
> out.  Maybe someone on the list can explain how this can happen.  It 
> is
> a mystery to me.
> 
> The lessons I learned are:
> 
> 1.          Listen to what Tracy says.  He knows what he is talking 
> about.
> 
> 2.        When you flood your engine and cannot get it to start 
> again
> after trying all the usual tricks, go ahead and spend a few extra 
> bucks
> for a NEW set of plugs.  For some reason, the new plugs make all 
> the
> difference.
> 
> 3.        Always stop the engine by turning off the fuel pump, so 
> that
> there is no fuel pressure in the line.  Otherwise, unburned fuel 
> may
> leak from the still pressurized injectors into the rotors and 
> increase
> the chances of hard starting or flooding the next time you try to 
> start
> the engine.
> 
> >>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
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> 
>