-------------- Original message from "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>: --------------


> I would like to share my recent experience of not being to start my
> Mazda 13B rotary engine and the solution.
>
> I am building a Mustang II kitplane, powered by a 1987 Mazda Turbo
> Engine. The engine was rebuilt by me and installed on the airframe
> several months ago. It has an aftermarket 60-1 Turbo from Turbonetics.
> The ignition and fuel controller, as well as the propeller reduction
> unit, are from Tracy Crook's Real World Solutions. My first engine
> start was several months ago and I have started the engine and run it at
> idle and up to 2,500 rpm for up to 20 minutes at a time (all on the
> ground) on numerous occasions. The engine has been starting and running
> very nicely. The radiator and oil cooler seem to be working very well
> even without any air flowing over them, because the engine does not
> overheat on the ground for quite some time (up to 20 minutes). I do not
> have a thermostat in the water cooling system, but the oil cooler
> thermostat is still in place. I have not attached my propeller yet.
>
> About a month ago, I had some trouble starting the engine and it may
> have gotten flooded. From that time until this last weekend, I could not
> get the engine to start. I removed the plugs, wiped them off and dried
> them, and cranked the engine to blow out all excess fuel. The plugs
> were practically new with only a few hours of ground running on them.
> They are very clean looking, but with some black around the ceramic
> portion deep within the plug. Each plug fired when tested outside of
> the engine. These are stock NGK plugs as specified for the engine.
>
> I tested each and every component of the engine electrical and fuel
> system and found everything to be working properly. I put in new fuel,
> checked the injectors for leaks and proper firing and confirmed that I
> was getting 40 psi fuel pressure to the injectors. Timing was checked
> and re-set. The engine still would not start. I could not even get one
> little ignition event. Battery was fully charged and I used a jumper
> cable from my car as a booster. Cranking speed was at its maximum.
> Compression was 85 - 90 psi for each rotor face.
>
> In frustration, I e-mailed Tracy Crook, who suggested that I try starter
> fluid and NEW plugs after I cranked the engine with plugs out to remove
> any excess fuel. The starter fluid did no good when I tried the process
> with my original (really clean looking and dry) plugs.
>
> However, when I took Tracy's advice and put in NEW plugs, the engine
> started immediately and ran perfectly. I do not understand how a
> flooded engine can make the plugs incapable of firing in the engine when
> they fire just fine outside of the engine, especially when all of the
> excess fuel has been blown out of the engine by cranking with the plugs
> out. Maybe someone on the list can explain how this can happen. It is
> a mystery to me.
>
> The lessons I learned are:
>
> 1. Listen to what Tracy says. He knows what he is talking about.
>
> 2. When you flood your engine and cannot get it to start again
> after trying all the usual tricks, go ahead and spend a few extra bucks
> for a NEW set of plugs. For some reason, the new plugs make all the
> difference.
>
> 3. Always stop the engine by turning off the fuel pump, so that
> there is no fuel pressure in the line. Otherwise, unburned fuel may
> leak from the still pressurized injectors into the rotors and increase
> the chances of hard starting or flooding the next time you try to start
> the engine.
>
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