X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m15.mx.aol.com ([64.12.138.205] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c5) with ESMTP id 912922 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 24 Apr 2005 11:00:39 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.138.205; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m15.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38.7.) id q.bf.5626f00e (4262) for ; Sun, 24 Apr 2005 10:59:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2005 10:59:45 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Apex Slot Wear/ Grinding for 3mm Seals To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 04/24/2005 03:21 Central Daylight Time, lendich@optusnet.com.au writes: << Lynn, Ken Welter reported accelerated slot wear after machining his rotors for 3 mm seals.......Granted Ken is pulling about 300 HP for takeoff using nitrus oxide........It was mentioned that the hardened layer at the rotor tips was lost due to grinding for the 3mm seals........Do you know what hardening process is used (induction, etc) and whether it could be restored........Your take on this please Lynn or anyone !! -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 >> I was unaware of the hardening process if any. I have only seen 5 or 6 rotors with worn grooves in 30 years of looking. Any number of processes are available, like electron beam, induction. Spray metal and maybe ceramic buildup and remachine. I try not to build more than one engine per year, and that would be one of mine. I rebuild the engine spare engine from last year to be the race engine for this year, and include any ideas or changes. Last years race engine becomes the spare. I have a guest engine to do shortly, but even that engine has good grooves, and it has been raced for years with iron seals and a stock oil pump. One rebuild on this engine was required when a piece of safety wire about 3/16" long found its way into the intake, and took out an apex seal, rotor and housing. I just picked up a set of lightened rotors in exchange for the rebuild. They look fine to me. I have repaired damaged rotors. Filling in dents and gouges. Even along the seal groove. They weld up well and a diamond file in the groove gets things straight again. I note that Racing Beat uses large amounts of top oil in when pulling huge numbers from their turbo 3 rotor. I don't know if that is injected through the housings or premix (or both). When my wife's RX-3 ate a seal, the groove was an obvious "V" shape. It was not a case of metal pushed aside. It was missing. Plus, the seal was much too short (it fell out of the groove) and much too thin. The side seals were alarmingly too short. It should not have started much less pulled the car around. The car was owned by a teenaged girl who drove it through 4 years at Ohio State University. I may have been the first person to remove the oil drain plug. I think in that case, the lack of lubrication was the cause of the failure. I think a good synthetic oil supply as premix, and an effective air cleaner prolong engine life to the degree that it just becomes boring. A good thing in an airplane engine. Lynn E. Hanover