Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.102] (HELO ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c3) with ESMTP id 881810 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:51:50 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.25.9.102; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 (cpe-024-074-185-127.carolina.res.rr.com [24.74.185.127]) by ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id j3ICovY5016443 for ; Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:51:01 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <00e001c54415$448a3f40$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Air filters Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:50:58 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00DD_01C543F3.BD3AABE0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00DD_01C543F3.BD3AABE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Good question, Todd. I'd like to know the answer as well since I have = some "epoxy aluminum" shaping my secondary intakes. Yes - I did check = and its all still there and appears firmly attached to the walls. I = tried to shape it such that should the epoxy actually lose adhesion to = the walls, it shape would preclude it from shifting much or going into = the port - assuming it stated in one piece. I had though about casting = some polyurethane inserts for that area - but decided it probably was = less capable of withstanding the heat than the epoxy. I agree if it gets acetylene torch hot - you have other more serious = problems {:>) Ed A ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Todd Bartrim=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 3:38 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Air filters This thread has gotten me thinking about things that make rotors stop. = So tonight I removed the an item of concern. There was a screw = inside my airbox (under the filter) holding it down onto it's proper = position. This was due to the shape of the intake hose trying to move it = a little. However the heat from the engine and turbo over the last 50+ = hours has made it sit perfectly without the screw to hold it and once = the top cowl is in position it is captured and cannot move. But more disconcerting is another mod. Many builders have done = this and that is the plastic steel (JB weld or Devcon) inside the = secondary intakes in the end plates. During my first build I was all = ready to perform this task when I had thoughts about a piece of plastic = weld breaking loose and going through a rotor, so I omitted it. On my = second rebuild (after detonation incident), I went ahead with it, = thinking that if anything like this was going to happen I'd likely have = heard about it and also thinking that the engine would likely just pass = it through without incident. Now after reading Leon's testimonials about = things as trivial as a bit of cardboard taking out a rotor, I'm again = thinking about this.=20 Plastic steel is incredibly tough, but when I need to remove some, = I use my acetylene torch to heat it and it will crumble away in chunks. = Now if the engine is properly cooled it should never get anywhere near = hot enough to compromise the strength of this stuff, would it? What = about on a loss of coolant or other overheat situation. Even if the = engine doesn't appear to be damaged from this, what about the plastic = steel?=20 I'm not being paranoid or anything here, but just asking questions = to promote thought about plastic steel. Don't get me wrong, I think it = is wonderful stuff. Todd ------=_NextPart_000_00DD_01C543F3.BD3AABE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Good question, Todd.  I'd like to = know the=20 answer as well since I have some "epoxy aluminum" shaping my secondary=20 intakes.  Yes - I did check and its all still there and appears = firmly=20 attached to the walls.  I tried to shape it such that should the = epoxy=20 actually lose adhesion to the walls, it shape would preclude it from = shifting=20 much or going into the port - assuming it stated in one piece.  I = had=20 though about casting some polyurethane inserts for that area - but = decided it=20 probably was less capable of withstanding the heat than the = epoxy.
 
I agree if it gets acetylene torch hot = - you have=20 other more serious problems {:>)
 
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Todd = Bartrim=20
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 = 3:38=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Air=20 filters

This=20 thread has gotten me thinking about things that make rotors stop.=20
    So tonight I removed the an item of = concern. There=20 was a screw inside my airbox (under the filter) holding it down = onto it's=20 proper position. This was due to the shape of the intake hose trying = to move=20 it a little. However the heat from the engine and turbo over the last = 50+=20 hours has made it sit perfectly without the screw to hold it and once = the top=20 cowl is in position it is captured and cannot = move.
    But more disconcerting is another mod. Many = builders have=20 done this and that is the plastic steel (JB weld or Devcon) inside the = secondary intakes in the end plates. During my first build I was = all=20 ready to perform this task when I had thoughts about a piece of = plastic weld=20 breaking loose and going through a rotor, so I omitted it. On my = second=20 rebuild (after detonation incident), I went ahead with it, thinking = that if=20 anything like this was going to happen I'd likely have heard about it = and also=20 thinking that the engine would likely just pass it through without = incident.=20 Now after reading Leon's testimonials about things as trivial as a bit = of=20 cardboard taking out a rotor, I'm again thinking about this.=20
    Plastic steel is incredibly tough, but when I = need to=20 remove some, I use my acetylene torch to heat it and it will crumble = away in=20 chunks. Now if the engine is properly cooled it should never get = anywhere near=20 hot enough to compromise the strength of this stuff, would it? = What about=20 on a loss of coolant or other overheat situation. Even if the engine = doesn't=20 appear to be damaged from this, what about the plastic steel?=20
    I'm not being paranoid or anything here, but = just asking=20 questions to promote thought about plastic steel. Don't get me wrong, = I think=20 it is wonderful stuff.
 
Todd
 
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