2)Also, the RD1-B has two outlets, I BELIEVE they are 1/4" NPT.. any
recommended part numbers/vendors?

I believe they are 1/4" NPT, and the adapter to take this to AN-6 is common, available most anywhere.

3)Finally, the turbo oil OUT on top of the front end plate is a M12 1.5
thread pitch... this also corresponds with the engine mount hole in the
lower MIDDLE iron that I drilled out for PSRU oil return.. same thread
size/pitch... again.. any known sources of metric to AN fittings or
custom work...

Earl's catalog shows a fitting for this.  It's 12mm x 1.5 to AN-6, and the Earl's number is 991944.   Summit has them in stock, EAR-991944ERL is the part number.

5) We are going to probably do a remote oil filter.. by doing so, we
arent REQUIRED to use Mazda specific filters and mounting hardware. Any
recommendation on quality remote mount oil filters and remote mounts.
Filters and mounts that are compatible with safety wiring are a bonus.

There was a lot of talk about K&N filters recently, and I even got one, but I sent it back because it was huge.  Great filter though, and with a safety wire provision.  Should work with almost any remote adapter using the same thread.

That being said, I'm happy with the Mazda filter.  I'm using the 3rd gen filters on my engine now, and feel completely comfortable with that solution.

6) I plan to put a quick drain on the oil pan and put a hose on the
quick drain. This will allow for cleaner oil changes by diverting the
draining oil to a location where it wont hit the radiator. I intend to
safety wire the drain closed. Any known vendors  for such a device? I
dont even know the size of the oil pan bolt.

I have a note that the oil drain plug is 14mm x 1.5, but it also says "need to confirm" next to the note.  I did a quick Google search, and came up with this quick drain for a motorcycle.  Heck, I might try one.

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=QC

7) I saw one or two folks who had made their own oil pad bypass blocks.
The ones who did this let me know on the size of AL stock, the diameters
you used for your passages, the size bits you used to mill o-ring groves

I think Dale Rogers is set up to make these for anyone who wants them.  I would have let him make mine, but he wasn't quite ready when I needed it.  The adapter can vary quite a bit, so there's no set size.  I don't even recall the sizes of the holes that I drilled, but I made the o-ring grooves 3/4" diameter, because that was the size of my end mill.  I just got o-rings to fit, and it hasn't leaked a drop.   As I mentioned earlier, plan to return oil to this block, and you won't need the fitting at the bottom of the rear housing. 

For any of you eagle eyed folks who try to figure out my oil routing from the picture, it's a little odd.  The oil cooler has in inlet, and two outlets.  I used the AN-12 outlet to go to the adapter block, which connects the outlet tank of the cooler to the pressure regulator in the engine.  The other outlet from the cooler goes to the filter by way of an AN-8 hose (can't really see this in the pic).  The oil then comes out of the filter, and returns to the filter pad adapter block.   In the picture, you can also see that I drilled and tapped two 1/4" NPT holes in the rotor housing foot.  I just ran a separate hose from each of the RD-1C drains. 

Cheers,

Rusty (planning to check the temp increase through that black inlet duct)