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Thanks for the response, Ed. Any chance of
you flying up here to hold on to the plug wire while I crank the engine?
Actually, I have a spark tester that is very simple. You just unplug the wire
from the plug, and insert this 3 inch long device which has a boot that plugs
onto the top of the spark plug, and then the plug wire plugs onto the other end
which has a male "spark plug looking thingy" and it has a light in the center of
it. It has a light in it, and it will flash each time there is a spark sent to
the plug. The engine will still run, as the plug still gets the electricity to
it, this is just an in-line spark tester that I use on the forklifts we
maintain.
After checking for spark,
etc I think I will go ahead and crank it back up and run it a bit to see if it
was just one rotor flooded. This is the first time this has happened. It usually
starts within two or three blades. It is not cooperating at this time.
Must be female. Oops...did I just say that? Please
disregard.
The next step will be
looking at/swapping injectors. Fortunately, I only have two (in the TWM
throttlebody), so it doesen't take long to find which is not functioning.
Take care, and thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and
suggestions. Paul Conner
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:06
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: engine running
poorly
Paul, I would suggestion (if you have not already
done this) make certain that the "bad" rotor is getting spark and fuel.
Pretty easy on the spark just hold the plug wire in you hand and crank the
engine {:>) - recall ever having someone do that to you as a kid "helping"
fix a lawn mower. "Here hold this. Yoweee!! Yep! got
spark OK". I just stick a plug in it and observe whether there is a
strong spark.
I have had the engine "run" on only one rotor -
rougher than a cob. In my cases, it has been a fuel issue.
Generally, its happened after I have "flooded" the engine or have a hard time
getting it started on a cold morning. One rotor will apparently find the
right mixture and start running and eventually (if you can stand the rough
running) the second rotor will kick in. That may not be the case with
your situation, however. Generally 30-45 seconds of running on one rotor
would clear up my "one rotor" operation.
The most likely suspect is the injector circuit
to your "bad" rotor. Try removing the injector from the good running
rotor (along with its connector still connected) and install in the bad
rotor. If the bad rotor starts running then you know its your bad
rotor's injector/wiring (most likely).
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:46
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] engine running
poorly
Well, I finished scraping the foam out of my
new cowling ram air scoop today. I put the cowling on and wanted to run the
engine to see if I was getting sufficient outside air into the throttlebody
to get the kind of rpm increases that I experienced with the top cowling
removed last week. Engine was hard to start, and when it did start, it
was obvious that it was only running on one rotor. I pulled the spark
plugs for inspection, and they looked to be in good, clean condition. I then
removed one injector plug and restarted the engine, and there was no change.
(the injector closest to the water pump). I then replaced that
injector plug and removed the one closest to the PSRU and the engine would
not run at all. Well, now at least I know which rotor is producing
power. Because I ran the engine so hard during the ground runs last
week trying to eliminate the vapor lock problem, (250 degrees water
temp) I'm thinking it might be prudent to just replace the spark plugs
regardless of how good they appear on the surface.
Next, I will
switch the two injector plugs to find out if it is the injector or the
wiring to the injector that is causing the problem. (after replacing the
spark plugs, of course). Any other hints or suggestions you guys might
come up with will be greatly appreciated. I did turn the prop thru a couple
of times, and the sucking sounds of the engine seem to indicate that the
apex seals are probably not suspect.
Will update my
findings soon. Paul Conner
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