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Message-ID: <008001c50e37$36653640$9e731fd3@george>
From: "George Lendich" <lendich@optusnet.com.au>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-720295@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] new adapter plate
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:37:54 +1000
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Ernest,

Firstly springs in a clutch plate aren't much good for torsional
vibrations -try the Tracy Crook method.
Secondly how do you intend to attach your counter weight to the flexplate -
I guess I'm al ittle confused at what your doing there.

George ( down under)

> I've been really active in the garage for the past few days.  As
> background for those who are new and those who've forgotten, I bought my
> engine a while back from a gentleman who was building a 2/3rd scale
> Stearman.  He wanted a radial engine, and when he couldn't find one
> small enough, he started converting a 13B so that it looked like a
> radial.  Later he found a small radial and abandoned the 13B project.
>
> I pretty much bought a 'pig in a poke', only having a chance to look
> over the PSRU and bellhousing before handing over money, but at $2500
> for a rebuilt engine and reduction unit, combined with Joe Hunt's
> stellar reputation, I didn't see to much of a downside.
>
> Fast forward a couple years, and I'm now moving into the process of
> completing this project and having to redirect it from a engine for a
> plane that needed extra nose weight to a engine for a plane that needs
> to keep as much weight off the nose as possible.
>
> My first goal is to remove the manual flywheel and clutch plate.  We
> discussed this just a week or two ago, and the pictures below show the
> result.  My buddy Mark let me use his lathe, and I cut a jig out of a
> piece of scrap iron round bar.  I turned down two ledges;  one such that
> the flex plate was a push fit, and another such that the clutch plate
> was a push fit.  I didn't remove the jig in the process to guaranteed
> that the plates would end up perfect concentric. Then I drilled out the
> rivets to remove one side of the friction material from the clutch plate
> (the center one was needed as a spacer), and then match drilled  holes
> through both plates for  5/16 bolts.  The only modification I think I
> will need to do now is add large area washers on both sides to spread
> out the bolt's compression forces so that more of the friction material
> is engaged.
>
>
>


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