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In a message dated 1/21/2005 12:42:08 PM Central Standard Time, j-winddesigns@thegrid.net writes:
<< By the way, I am sure you have seen various p > port intake manifolds. The one I had a chance to look at was a 90 > degree sweep with a carb mounted on top. I think it was about 12 > inches long. Does that sound right to you? It may have been shorter. > It was definitely a sweep so no problem with fuel deposition in that > case. I saw this car run through about $500 worth of rubber burning > out just because we were watching. Jerry
Unless it was home made it should have been about 9 inches along the center line.
I have one (a 12A) in a first gen in the barn. On the 2-3 shift it is wheelspin limited on slicks (cannot use full throttle). A real good feeling. Lynn E. Hanover.
Paul Yaw cannot charge enough for dyno time. If he stops work on his engines to rig up a customer built engine, it will take a bunch of time and then there is the possibility that the outside engine is crap and disintigrates on the dyno. Then what?
You pay him at least for 8 hours to get less than one hour of data and tuning if it doesn't blow up. A number of years ago (with a kind sponsor) we bought a real race engine from a name engine builder who actually shows up and helps tune it in your chassis. That engine was $14,000.00 complete. We bought an additional short engine for how much I forgot (a bunch). The engine made me look foolish and made the driver look foolish. I couldn't cool the water or oil, The driver had all of his braking points go out the window. Lap times improved only slightly. Our shift points were wrong, braking points were wrong and we were wasting the power the new engine provided in spades. So there is no way a popular engine builder can take time out from what he's up to and blow 8 hours of his and his dyno's time. Or at least you couldn't afford it if he would.
Plus the liability if you project dies on his dyno.
I had a Stuska dyno. I miss it every day. I should never have sold it.
A simple chassis dyno is a big truck axle sitting in the floor with just 3 inches of truck tire sticking out of the floor. Tie the car down so that the tires of race car are square on the truck tires and tied down latterally but is free to move for and aft about one inch. Put the car in whatever your straight thru gear is 4th or 5th. Limit forward movement of the car with a strain gage. Mount the monitor for the strain gage and the tach side by side.
Run the car up to max revs at full throttle and have your partner push the brake pedal rigged up the the brakes on the truck axle. Drag the engine down to your lowest test point RPM with the brake over about 15 seconds, and shut it off still at full throttle (to get a plug reading). There should be a video camera looking at the strian gage and the tach so you can replay it many times. Hire a math major to calculate the HP at every ten RPM point Write the formula on the wall so you can do it after the math major leaves.
You know thrust at the rear wheels (to calculate torque) use the math to get torque at the flywheel. You know RPM from the movie.
HP= torque X RPM/5252 (divided by 5252)
I got a million of them.
Lynn E. Hanover
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