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David Carter wrote:
Output Alternator Alternator . . . Regulator . . . . Regulator
Amps . . . . P/N . . . . wt & cost . . . . P/N. . . . . . . . . .wt & cost
. . . Total cost & wt
. . 20 . . AM877557 . 1.81#, $145.49 . AM101406 . . 0.2# $66.56 . .
$212.05 & 2.01#
The above info is an extract from 1st line of a spreadsheet about John Deere
PM alternators.
On 2 Apr 2003, Ned Thomas reported:
"I went to the local John Deere dealer and bought the 20 amp PM alternator.
I then bought a 14 amp PM alternator that is used on the 3 cylinder diesel
Kubota engines. It is 2 lbs lighter than the 20 amp and I think is adequate
for a backup alternator. Fell free to give me a call to discuss further.
. . . Ned Thomas, 405-360-4298, Norman, OK, RV9A"
David, I've been counting on a minimum of 20A to just run the engine...13 for the ignition and fuel pumps and 7 for the EWP. I would like to see 35A for reliable system power in a VFR panelled airplane, and I don't believe that will be to hard to achieve.
If I'm able to devise an electron pusher hanging off the oil metering pump's gear, and I'm using the EWP, there is no need for the belt pulley on the end of the eccentric shaft. Harley Davidson has a 35A generator for their Goldwing line of cycles. I've only seen a picture, but it looks possible that it would fit easily in the pulley's place.
There are a lot of 'ifs' to be sorted out. IF the EWP works out. IF it's possible to adapt a generator to the oil metering pump. IF that generator can push 35A. If the Harley Davidson generator can be adapted. IF my wife will let me keep spending money to develope it all. Fortunately, I still have quite a bit of time to work on it, but it won't upset me much to have a few of them eliminated before I get there.
As for several of the other issues you raise.
McMasterCarr has a wide selection of couplers to tie two shafts together. It's a common problem, and there's a fairly wide range of solutions.
A 4" diameter generator is about the maximum that will fit in the pump's place. Most of the DC generators/motors I've seen in the power ranger we're concerned with have been around 3.5" diameter.
My best guess for physically mounting the generator would require cutting an aluminum plate. Drill a hole for the generator shaft with and oil seal. Bolt it to the front housing, then bolt the generator to the plate. Bolt clearance may be a problem, as there won't be a lot of clearance between the plate and the houseing. It may be necessary to have the generator bolts permantly attached to the plate.
I'm halfway through with a CAD drawing of the front housing, so I should be able to get better numbers before long. I just need to finish up this canopy frame first (the real thing, not a drawing).
--
http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/
"This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."
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