Return-Path: Received: from fed1rmmtao10.cox.net ([68.230.241.29] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 547350 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 27 Nov 2004 10:07:17 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=68.230.241.29; envelope-from=rogersda@cox.net Received: from smtp.west.cox.net ([172.18.180.52]) by fed1rmmtao10.cox.net (InterMail vM.6.01.04.00 201-2131-117-20041022) with SMTP id <20041127150646.WKJ18977.fed1rmmtao10.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> for ; Sat, 27 Nov 2004 10:06:46 -0500 X-Mailer: Openwave WebEngine, version 2.8.15 (webedge20-101-1103-20040528) From: Dale Rogers To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Spark Plug cleaners Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2004 10:06:47 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Message-Id: <20041127150646.WKJ18977.fed1rmmtao10.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> My experience parallels David's. In the mid-50's when I started working in my daddy's service station (back when you could actually get FULL services from a gas station) one of my first jobs was to clean plugs with a sandblast plug cleaner like Harbor Freight sells. This was back when a set of plugs for a V-8 cost half a day's pay, so if cleaning would make 'em last another 4-5 thousand miles, most customers would opt for cleaning over replacement. As time went on, I learned that cleaning wasn't very effective on the plugs for the four-barrel V-8's, and we recommended against trying the cleaning option. (It's bad customer relations when you do a tune-up and it doesn't run any better - or only does so for a week or two.) Eventually, I understood that it was the high-compression that seemed to make the difference. Cleaning the plugs not only removes the deposits but it texturizes the surface of the porcelain. That opens the way for deposits to collect more quickly and provide a path for the current to bypass the gap. I would recommend against having "cleaned" plugs as my on-board spares. And use the sandblaster sparingly. Oh, yeah, and "wet" plugs. Spray 'em with brake cleaner; it gets oil and gas out of the cavity and leaves a dry, residue-free plug. Dale R. COZY MkIV #1254 Ch's 4, 5 & 23 in progress. > From: "David Carter" > Date: 2004/11/26 Fri PM 11:44:16 EST > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" > Subject: [FlyRotary] Spark Plug cleaners (was Re: [FlyRotary] Re: > Bernie Kerr had fire in the hole! > > Ken, > > I didn't see any responses to your observation about plug cleaners. > > I used to use plug cleaners all the time in 1954 Ford 6 (low 7.x to 1 > compression ratio) and on my VW. They didn't seem to do as much good on > higher compression 1956 Chev'y power pack engine (8.5? to 1 "high" > compression) - plugs had to be good - cleaning and re-using didn't seem to > work well. > > Have I heard that a "cleaned used plug" is not as effective as a "new plug" > in the rotary engine after flooding? If there is such anecdotal info, then > I wonder if the "hard to start unless new plugs" is due more to loss of > compression due to loss of oil film and resulting need for "max good spark"? > I wonder if squirting some extra oil in the plug holes for each rotor face > wouldn't help it start better, maybe with "cleaned plugs"? Leon Prommet > mentioned a long time ago that an ideal engine setup would have a little > tank of some concoction of oil (he mentioned brake fluid??) that would be > allowed to drip into the intake just before shutdown to "fog" the engine > really good (coat parts with a robust oil film) before shutdown. > > Just wonder if "cleaned plugs" have been given a "bum rap". > > David