Return-Path: Received: from fed1rmmtao06.cox.net ([68.230.241.33] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.3) with ESMTP id 430175 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 24 Sep 2004 01:08:06 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=68.230.241.33; envelope-from=daveleonard@cox.net Received: from smtp.west.cox.net ([172.18.180.67]) by fed1rmmtao06.cox.net (InterMail vM.6.01.03.04 201-2131-111-106-20040729) with SMTP id <20040924050734.FUQS5569.fed1rmmtao06.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> for ; Fri, 24 Sep 2004 01:07:34 -0400 X-Mailer: Openwave WebEngine, version 2.8.15 (webedge20-101-1103-20040528) From: To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Progress on the rebuild (LONG) (feedback wanted) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 1:07:34 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Message-Id: <20040924050734.FUQS5569.fed1rmmtao06.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> David, sounds like you are having a great experience (read: lots of learning) rebuilding the engine ;-) Here is my $.02 on some of your issues: >> > So far, my questions are as follows: > > 1) On the intake side, there are several holes that appear to be > water jacket holes for the intake manifold. I want to say I was told > these are for warming the intake manifold with hot water for emissions > purposes. I have yet to see an aviation intake that uses these holes. > Plug with JB weld or epoxy putty? > I'm not sure which holes you are taking about. The water feed to the manifold is a large hole in the outside of the rotor housing. I am actually using it in mine to feed water to the tubo but it is not otherwise needed. Those holes are far too large to plug with JB. The intake manifold fits over them and will seal them off, or you can get a plug designed to fit in one. > 2) On the water pump housing where the thermostat is installed, there > is a tubular bypass channel that returns to the water pump intake. I > have read that if you remove the thermostat, this channel needs to be > plugged. Best method? JB? Yes, you need to close off that bypass, but possibly leave a small hole in the uppermost part to let any pocket of air out. I really don't recommend JB Weld for long term fixes like that. I welded mine over with an aluminum plate, but some guys have been able to tap it and install a plug. > > 3) On the oil injection pump setup, at the present time I have the > pump drive shaft removed, and plan on NOT using oil injection (and mix > in the fuel tank instead) at this point but may add it later. I have > heard folks say that you need to plug the oil passage, and NOT at the > point it exits at the injector pump flange. Is it not somehow acceptable > to cover this whole spot with a plate of metal and a sealant/gasket > material to prevent leakage but still leave the port intact for future use? That's what I did, just put a plate over the hole left when the pump was removed, seems to work OK. > > 5) Anyone running a higher oil pressure relief valve on the rear > end housing, and any benefit to this over stock. I have read that the > higher pressure ones can contribute to oil burning and smoking... Same > question for the Racing Beat catalogue parts for the enhanced oil pump > they sell. I'm using the stock oil pressure regulators. I just didn't feel that I was smarter than Mazda there. Are you going to use the old turbo? I am looking for a used stock '91/92 turbo that I can rebuild. Hope that helped some. Dave Leonard