Nick--

I'm unfamiliar with the "adjustable" rudder pedals like yours so all I can do is describe my own train of thought. Not knowing for sure how my feet would fit in the well, I installed a metal floorboard like you did, but made provision for several possible locations to bolt down the rudder pedals. When the seat back was in, I picked the location that best fit my feet and installed the rudder pedals there. I made no provision for multiple pilots; This is MY plane and I will be the only one in the left seat. When I get too old to fly and sell the plane, the next owner can move the pedals to suit his physique and buy new rudder cables. On the photo I posted previously, you can see the series of holes with nutplates for mounting the rudder mechanism.

The way I look at it, new rudder cables are cheap (in the greater scheme of things). The new cables with a factory-swaged eye on one end that I just ordered from Aircraft Spruce will probably cost me $120 for two. I figure if I ever get 6" shorter and need to move the pedals, I'll just buy new cables.

I was looking at the crimps on your cables. Obviously, I'm no expert, but the crimps I see on the Nicopress site look different than yours; They're perpendicular to the cable. Yours look more like mine which were crimped in parallel with the cable. Of course, one of those failed. I'm pleased to see that you used TWO crimps, though, which I intend to do this time as well. Also, I'll be reversing my cables so the factory ends are at the pedals and the Nicopress ends are at the rudder where I can inspect them (and crimp them easier).

I've also been worrying about "What if the cable slips off the AN111 thimble" (originally recommended in the 235 plans)? That's not a problem with a clevis as in the photo below, but it will be back at the rudder with just a thru-bolt. I guess I'll be using an area washer back there just like we do on rod-end bearings.

Certainly someone here must have some wisdom to add here. What have others done? (Below is the right cable which didn't fail):



--John


Posted for "Nick Long" <nick@beaglepup.info>:

> John,
>
> Many thanks for your post – this is seriously good timing. I happen to have
>the header tank off my 320 and I’m in the process of re-routing the brake
>lines. I also noticed that some of the fittings on the rudder cables were
>working loose.
>
> So, I went back and looked at the assembly after your post, and I would have
>the same problem: if a rudder cable let go, I would lose the brake as well as
>the rudder.
>
> Here is a picture of my installation; it is dual control and adjustable, so
>not the same as yours, and blocks on the side of the footwell won’t work. But
>it strikes me that there is a really simple solution to fitting a travel stop
>on the rudder pedals. All it would take is a rod or tube inside the springs.
>It would want to be 3/8” diameter and 2 1/2” long. It could be a metal tube
>or a plastic rod and it could even have V notches in each and to engage
>securely with the metal parts of the rudder assembly.
>
> What do people think? Am I re-inventing the wheel? How have people with this
>pedal system done this in the past?
>
> Yours,
>
> Nick