Angier,

 

Too late now..... Gap seals are really easy to do before finishing and painting.  Gap seals have been a topic before.

 

For me, gap seals have added 6-8 Knots.  In my case I have added curved Mylar strips (self-adhesive) with the leading edges of the Mylar covered with 1" inch safety tape that is very thin and ensures that the Mylar won't lift (1/2" on the Mylar and 1/2" on the fuselage.  This application of gap seals/tape will, uh, disrupt a clever paint scheme.  Ailerons and elevators needs both surfaces sealed.  The rudder needs the wider Mylar tape and also needs to seal both sides.  While I sealed both upper and lower flap gaps, only the lower actually needs the seal.  I have recently removed the upper seal with some difficulty.

 

One con is that once stuck down, one must be careful in removing these seals because it may lift the clear coat or paint.  Another is that hinge screws (and the hinges) will by covered by the Mylar, thus maintenance access is more difficult.  Another is that the Mylar will eventually mar the control surface paint.  

 

Was it worth it?  You bet, 6-8 Knots for very little investment.

 

The Mylar and safety tape are available from soar plane supply sites.  Use Google.  Remember that gliders seldom operate beyond 100 KIAS.  Pay attention because the loss of a gap seal may lead to less than symmetric effects.  

 

I don't care, you will have to pry my seals from my cold dead hands - well, maybe not so dramatic as the NRA claims.......

 

 Below is a really fuzzy pic but it show seals on the lower surfaces and rudder as taken during a low pass at the LOBO Branson flyin.  The reason it's fuzzy is that at that altitude above the runway I am really at a blazing speed......

 

 

Grayhawk

LNC2 320

 

How about a gap seal product for control surfaces, any suggestions or experience?

Angier Ames
N4ZQ
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