Return-Path: Received: from www07.netaddress.usa.net ([204.68.24.27]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with SMTP id AAA19889 for ; Fri, 18 Sep 1998 14:51:54 -0400 Received: (qmail 20540 invoked by uid 60001); 18 Sep 1998 18:51:50 -0000 Message-ID: <19980918185150.20539.qmail@www07.netaddress.usa.net> Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:51:50 From: Dan Schaefer To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: conductor, anodizing, gas strut X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> The reason you don't want to use a steel firewall pass-thru conductor hasn't got a thing to do with steel's tendency to magnetize but rather because it's a lousy conductor. When you're trying to get enough current from the battery to the starter, one thing you don't want to do is waste anything on heating up stuff in the path. Any high resis- tance link, like a couple of steel bolts, is to be avoided. OK, use copper pass-thru, if you must - just be sure to provide enough cross- section to keep the resistance low, keeping in mind that the lowest resistance is just the cable with no bolts at all. However, if you are going to use a bolt, use the starter relay connections as a guide to absolute minimum cross-section (you don't think the manufacturer of that relay is going to put in one micron more than absolutely necessary, do you?). As far as magnetic influence is concerned, wires carrying current produce magnetic fields that are proportional in intensity to the amount of current. Stop cranking your starter and the field produced by the cables from the battery to the starter goes away. That field can be fairly large so to keep it from getting a permanent hammer-lock on your mag compass, it's a good idea to keep those cables as far from it as possible. A permanent magnetic field, such as might be produced by a magnetized bolt or the steel in your engine mount, by definition is pretty much steady-state and should be able to be compensated for when you swing your compass. Oh yeah, if you can get it done without it being ridiculously expensive, have your threaded copper gizmos silver-plated. In my other life, I've used copper things for connection points in some very high current applications and we've found that the silver plate preserves the low resistance. Time corrodes all (just ask my wife) and silver corrosion products are as good a conductor as the parent metal while copper's ain't. I've noted that different aluminum alloys take on a very different surface appearance and texture even when done at the same time. I had made some non-strucural parts out of a hunk I had laying around the shop and sent them off with the other aluminum bits and pieces to be anodized. I was quite surprised at the look and feel when they came back. As I have no background in this area, I asked about it and was informed that what I saw was due to the alloy. Didn't bother me, but if you're trying for a certain cosmetic appearance, try a sample first. Another source of gas struts is ones used on late model Cadillacs for the trunk assist. Found one of these that was perfect for the nose gear down-lock when the original gave out. Might be a source for you guys using them on your canopy. Cheers, Dan Schaefer ____________________________________________________________________ Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1