As I mentioned, here are the instructions re-typed.The instruction sheet I had was a fax of a bad copy in Feb ’07. It would take me longer to fix the OCR than retyping, so with retyping it is included below.
Regards,
Charles Patton
N360JM (Currently for sale. See: www.myeclectic.info for complete info.)

----------------START of RETYPE -----------------------------

ENGINE HOURS RE-PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE FOR EPI-800

To re-load engine hours, follow the steps below:
STEP 1 – Power OFF. Remove your standard tachometer from ribbon cable.
STEP 2 – Install special tachometer to ribbon cable (with the rotary switch connected).
STEP 3 – Place rotary switch in position 5 (NOTE: full CCW is position 1)
STEP 4 – Turn on EPI800 system and wait for exactly one minute.
STEP 5 – Move switch to the following positions to adjust time:
Thousands: Position 4
Hundreds: Position 9
Tens: Position 8
Ones: Position 7
Tenth: Position 6
FREEZE: Position 5

Note: you have only 60 seconds to correctly set time. After that, the program locks you out. If you didn’t finish completely, then go back to STEP 1. If you made a mistake, you can reset the time by selecting the thousands decade and allowing it to “roll-over’ the display back to zero twice, then proceed with setting the time again.

STEP 6 – When you have the correct time, quickly move the switch to ‘position’ 5. The display should read your correct engine time in hours and tenths. Turn power off.

STEP 7 – Replace your original tach.
STEP 8 – Ship any loaned items back to:

ATTN. Tech Dept.
Vision Microsystems, Inc.
Bellingham, WA 98226
PH: 360-714-8203 FX: 360-714-8253

-------------------END of RETYPE--------------------

Additional notes by C.R. Patton
1. Your panel’s tach display board can be used in lieu of the factory tach board loaner. Your display board just doesn’t have the header pins on it to plug the rotary switch onto. Adding the header to the existing tach board is a bit of a trick. I know I didn’t fully disassemble the display for some reason – as I recall it’s because the board was soldered on in such a way that even though I know how to de-solder, there was potential for damage and with no easy replacement parts, I didn’t want to risk it. So I removed the display, put it on the bench, and used a piece of aluminum soda can to shield the things I didn’t want to melt and then reached in with a fine, long soldering tip and soldered in a set of header pins to plug the EGT/CHT switch cable on. I felt that was less risky in the total scheme of things. Now I wish I had taken some pictures while I was at it. Oh well, if you have questions, take pictures of your unit and I’ll comment as best I can.

2. Pull the EGT/CHT switch off the EGT/CHT display and re-plug on the now modified Tach display board. Use the procedure above to set the tach time. The cheat sheet for the EGT/CHT switch to setting positions as seen from the front panel is : (set your font to Courier for best results)

FREEZE
5
@
1000’s PEAK 4 @ @ 6 CLR 0.1’s
C2 3 @ @ 7 C1 1’s
C4 2 @ @ 8 C3 10’s
C6 1 @ @ 9 C5 100’s

2. The clock/battery/memory chip is an STMicroelectronics M48T02 or M48T12 in a DIP 24 package available from Digikey. The spec sheet says they’re supposed to be good for at least 10 years but I’m on the second replacement. Jim, the builder, while building had to replace it 3/99 and I replaced it 1/07 so that puts our experience at about 8 years. Your results may vary!

4. It took me about 3 or 4 times to get the rhythm of setting the tach time before the timeout, but it can be done.

If you have more questions, feel free to contact me.
Charles R. Patton
charles.r.patton@ieee.org <mailto:charles.r.patton@ieee.org>
951-698-9657