Return-Path: Received: from smtp2.gateway.net ([208.230.117.246]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:24:56 -0500 Received: from oemcomputer (1Cust68.tnt3.coeur-dalene.id.da.uu.net [63.15.161.68]) by smtp2.gateway.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with SMTP id VAA08053 for ; Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:29:58 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <001401bf5d6e$aee9b200$44a10f3f@oemcomputer> Reply-To: "dfs" From: "dfs" To: "Lancair List" Subject: Prop Governor Studs Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:34:13 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> To Mike S. Reinath re: the question about stud length. Lycoming makes quite a lot of different stud lengths. Sounds like Don George slipped up and just installed the wrong ones. I'd check with the Lyc factory about getting longer ones, or if you have a Lyc dealer in your area, I'd go to them for a look at the Lycoming parts catalog. The case end of a stud has a preferred engagement depth in order to develop the strength necessary for the application. Since all (or most) studs are threaded into aluminum and utilize coarse threads (an absolute necessity when installed in aluminum, by the way) you need a stud that is driven to the correct depth and THEN provides the length to take the governor flange, the proper washers (probably a flat plus split) and then the nut plus a couple of threads beyond that. Get the right stud length for your application, the results of not doing so can only impact the insurance rates of the rest of us. Dan Schaefer >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>