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From: RWolf99@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 01:24:56 EST
Subject: Re:  LNC2 Hydraulic Cylinder Stops
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
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In a message dated 1/11/0 9:24:26 PM, you wrote:

<<if I set the rod end bearings to bottom out the cylinders in
the down position, the up stops are about 1/4" too short>>

Have the piston fully extended and bottomed out.  Have the gear down and 
overcenter-locked.  Pressurize the cylinder (it WILL push out a little more). 
 Adjust the rod end so that the bolt attaching it to the overcenter link 
drops thru without any significant pressure.  NEXT, retract the gear.  Make 
sure the external sleeve (3 came with your kit) causes the cylinder to stop 
moving when the tire is in the proper place.  Again, do this with the system 
pressurized.  I would suggest doing it by hand first, since powering the tire 
thru your wing fillet would be a bad thing.  You can experiment with washers 
here to determine the proper overall length, but don't leave the washers 
there.  Build a longer sleeve.

I had to build new external sleeves because the kit-supplied ones were too 
short.  The true problem was probably that I had the static end of the 
cylinder in the wrong place.  Whatever.  It works now.  Making new external 
sleeves was done on the lathe at my EAA chapter.  I used a drill and then a 
counterbore -- three of them took a couple of hours, but only because I'm a 
clod on the lathe.

<<The manual makes no reference to setting the down stop, but it seems like
continuous pressure on the overcenter link would not be desirable.>>

You're absolutely right, this is a bad thing.  The gear cylinders need to be 
"bottomed out", either internally or externally, when the gear is full-up or 
full-down in order to avoid structural problems (such as failures at the top 
of the nose gear tunnel).  The main gear is probably more robust in it's 
attachment, but why have the structure fight 1200 psi when it doesn't need to?

- Rob Wolf
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