X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 2 [X] Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 21:07:40 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d03.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.35] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.8) with ESMTP id 1990482 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 17 Apr 2007 19:20:18 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.35; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-d03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r8.1.) id q.d59.71683f0 (41810) for ; Tue, 17 Apr 2007 19:19:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 19:19:16 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Gear Trouble X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1176851956" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5365 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1176851956 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/17/2007 3:43:24 P.M. Central Daylight Time, marv@lancair.net writes: I've always had a problem when the weather warms up at all. The gear won't come down unless I crack open the dump valve for a second. I don't like doing that but if I don't I can't get the pressure out of the low switch to start the pump. I've tried adjusting the pressure switches a little each way to see if it would help but it doesn't. Maybe a bypass relay to start the pump in the down position would be the answer. Randy Stuart LNC2 [Randy, it almost sounds like you're fighting an internal pump issue. If you've got the pressure switches set to their lowest possible settings to achieve consistently reliable operation at _some_ particular temperature, unless there is something restricting the internal flow there is almost no reason that temperature should be able to be removed from the equation (ie, temp increase = pressure increase, which should be dealt with already). Isn't this one of the symptoms we hear about so often with the reversed spool valve? Greyhawk...??? Consider that if the spool/shuttle valve is stuck in some bad spot and the pressure is equally very high on both sides so that the dump valve cannot release the pressure, there may exist problems with the relief valves. Besides that, some of us have symmetric spool valves and some of us have offset ones. It is hard to install the symmetric ones backwards. Peculiar pressure build ups associated with heat expansion may also be associated with the pump relief valves. Mike Reinath claims that his relief valves operate differently when the pump runs. He has adjusted his to be close to the pressure valve action. The pump manufacturer claims that the relief valves should be set about 400 psi higher than the circuit requirement. Theoretically, the manufacturer has set the relief valves for about 1000 (600 lo pressure) and 1500 (1100 hi pressure). Also remember that pressure switches have a dead band - I.E. it may be triggered (to open) at the high side of its pressure setting and the pump may continue to run long enough to raise the pressure even more. Then, the pressure switch may not close again until the pressure has dropped several hundred psi below its setting. Or, maybe not. Hydraulic logic is not precise in this application. In my case, gear up operation frequently pauses before another blip finally tucks away everything nice and tight. Why? Because a spike opens the pressure switch prematurely and a few seconds later, pressure has degraded enough to re-activate the switch. A leak, you say? No, because that ultimately sucked up gear will remain up tight for days whilst the plane is on jacks. 'Splain that Lucy? Or, is it because that wild and crazy nose gear gas spring behaves differently at the end of a fast retract, then relaxes a bit after it is compressed for a few seconds and that causes a slight drop in the "hold it all up" pressure? Is it my Karma? Perhaps you should set your gear down pressure switch to a bit higher pressure. Perhaps you should install a pressure switch bypass switch as some have done. I dunno. The current dump valve resolution doesn't seem too bad when the occasional problem occurs. Grayhawk ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. -------------------------------1176851956 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 4/17/2007 3:43:24 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20 marv@lancair.net writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>I've=20 always had a problem when the weather warms up at all. The gear won't
= come=20 down unless I crack open the dump valve for a second. I don't like doing=20
that but if I don't I can't get the pressure out of the low switch to=20 start
the pump. I've tried adjusting the pressure switches a little ea= ch=20 way to see
if it would help but it doesn't. Maybe a bypass relay to st= art=20 the pump in the
down position would be the answer.
Randy=20 Stuart
LNC2


[Randy, it almost sounds like you're fighting an= =20 internal pump issue.  If you've got the pressure switches set to thei= r=20 lowest possible settings to achieve consistently reliable operation at _so= me_=20 particular temperature, unless there is something restricting the internal= =20 flow there is almost no reason that temperature should be able to be remov= ed=20 from the equation (ie, temp increase =3D pressure increase, which should b= e=20 dealt with already).  Isn't this one of the
symptoms we hear abou= t so=20 often with the reversed spool valve?  Greyhawk...???   = ;=20 <Marv>
Consider that if the spool/shuttle valve is stuck in some bad spot and=20= the=20 pressure is equally very high on both sides so that the dump valve cannot=20 release the pressure, there may exist problems with the relief=20 valves.  Besides that, some of us have symmetric spool valves and some=20= of=20 us have offset ones.  It is hard to install the symmetric ones=20 backwards.
 
Peculiar pressure build ups associated with heat expansion may also be=20 associated with the pump relief valves.  Mike Reinath claims that his=20 relief valves operate differently when the pump runs.  He has adjusted=20= his=20 to be close to the pressure valve action.
 
The pump manufacturer claims that the relief valves should be set about= 400=20 psi higher than the circuit requirement.  Theoretically, the manufactur= er=20 has set the relief valves for about 1000 (600 lo pressure) and 1500 (11= 00=20 hi pressure).  Also remember that pressure switches have a dead band -=20= I.E.=20 it may be triggered (to open) at the high side of its pressure setting and t= he=20 pump may continue to run long enough to raise the pressure even more. =20 Then, the pressure switch may not close again until the pressure has=20 dropped several hundred psi below its setting.  Or, maybe not. =20 Hydraulic logic is not precise in this application.
 
In my case, gear up operation frequently pauses before another blip fin= ally=20 tucks away everything nice and tight.  Why?  Because a spike opens= the=20 pressure switch prematurely and a few seconds later,  pressure has= =20 degraded enough to re-activate the switch.  A leak, you say?  No,=20 because that ultimately sucked up gear will remain up tight for days wh= ilst=20 the plane is on jacks.  'Splain that Lucy?  Or, is it because that= =20 wild and crazy nose gear gas spring behaves differently at the end=20 of a fast retract, then relaxes a bit after it is compressed for a= few=20 seconds and that causes a slight drop in the "hold it all up" pressure? = ; Is=20 it my Karma?
 
Perhaps you should set your gear down pressure switch to a bit higher=20 pressure.  Perhaps you should install a pressure switch bypass switch a= s=20 some have done.  I dunno.  The current dump valve resolution doesn= 't=20 seem too bad when the occasional problem occurs.
 
Grayhawk
 




See what's fre= e at AOL.com.=20=
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