X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 13:44:47 -0400 Message-ID: X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 2 [X] X-PolluStop-Diagnostic: ########## X-Orig-Return-Path: cskelt@earthlink.net X-PolluStop-Score: 1.00 X-PolluStop: Scanned with Niversoft PolluStop v2.3.1d X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([209.86.89.63] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.9) with ESMTP id 1139853 for marv@lancaironline.net; Sun, 04 Jun 2006 09:36:14 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.86.89.63; envelope-from=cskelt@earthlink.net DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=YuKSSYWK0+H1UmJ17q7c/6nVLjiL/jgrNFzAfmErXnG6qba70tCFC75eVfsvP6+y; h=Received:Message-ID:X-Priority:Reply-To:X-Mailer:From:To:Cc:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-type:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [4.230.42.252] (helo=earthlink.net) by elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net with asmtp (Exim 4.34) id 1FmslL-0005IU-PD; Sun, 04 Jun 2006 09:35:29 -0400 X-Original-Message-ID: <410-22006604133532347@earthlink.net> X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: cskelt@earthlink.net X-Mailer: EarthLink MailBox 2005.2.15.0 (Windows) From: "Christopher Skelt" X-Original-To: RWolf99@aol.com X-Original-Cc: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: RE: Glare Shield Gap -- LNC2 X-Original-Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 08:35:32 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII X-ELNK-Trace: df7a2c4e012c7de094f5150ab1c16ac04be4f309a0cc41ddc980f61624365a052d2a8a364b8cd733350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c X-Originating-IP: 4.230.42.252 Rob, Is 1/4 inch enough? It depends. In my case it wasn't, but depending on the vintage of your kit, and what options you have, the height of the top of the instrument panel etc. it may be OK. You need to have the canopy frame finished with the glass installed. I would also suggest that you bond the instrument panel in place I replaced the original four bar linkage in my 1990 kit with the forward hinging canopy. This involves removing material from the front underside of the canopy frame and adding carbon fibre layups that results in a thicker frame, right where it closes over the front of the glare shield. I attached foam strips along the lower side of the aft end of the deck. It's about 1/4 inches thick at the center, thickening to nearly 1/2 inch where it ends above the gas strut brackets aat the sides. This gives an absolute minimum clearance between the thickened canopy frame and the glare shield. It's more critical at the sides than in the center in my case. a lot of this is due to the carbon fibre stiffening. There's really no reason why you shouldn't increase the thickness of the foam at the front to increase clearance. I didn't because I didn't anticipate problems at the front when I orginally built everything. I had already fitted the aft of the glare shield to the top of the instrument panel and wanted to minimize the alterations to hole positions etc. I didn't use brackets at the front and instead drilled countersunk holes through the aft joggle of the deck and attached nutplates to the glare shield. I attached the glare shield to the panel using machine screws, nutplates on the flange of the instrument paned and tinneman washers on the glare shield. This helps get it snug around the sides and stops the gas struts touching the sides of the glare shield when you open and close the canopy. Regards, Chris. > [Original Message] > From: Marvin Kaye > Date: 6/1/2006 7:02:06 PM > Subject: Glare Shield Gap -- LNC2 > > Posted for RWolf99@aol.com: > > I'm about to glue a set of 90-degree flanges to my header tank to capture the > front edge of my glareshield. I'd appreciate suggestions as to how much room > to leave between the top of the flange and the bottom of the aft lip of the > header tank -- this is the gap into which the glare shield gets shoved. Of > course, if I had an upholstered glare shield, I'd know the answer. But I > don't. I just have a fiberglass dust cover from Lancair. > > I was planning on leaving a 1/4 inch gap. Does this sound about right? > > Thanks in advance. > > - Rob Wolf > LNC2 > Parker Colorado