Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:35:41 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r03.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.99] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b9) with ESMTP id 2474416 for lml@lancaironline.net; Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:23:11 -0400 Received: from VTAILJEFF@aol.com by imo-r03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v36_r1.1.) id q.24.4265db63 (4254) for ; Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:22:39 -0400 (EDT) From: VTAILJEFF@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <24.4265db63.2c44089e@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:22:38 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] Re: LIV-P Building Questions-Nose Gear Doors X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 113 Barry, I did a flox release in the nose gear tunnel as well to ger a flat "shim" for the nose gear angles to rest against. Just make sure you can get the angles in and out with the nutpates on them. Otherwise you will have to grind out some of your flox. The bottom of the lower cowl will pull up tight against the angles. Make sure your doors are symetical on centerline-- they are not necessarily rectangles. Jeff Edwards LIVP N619SJ