Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 19:50:25 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net ([63.231.195.113] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0.6) with SMTP id 2040809 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 01 Mar 2003 12:48:56 -0500 Received: (qmail 88880 invoked by uid 0); 1 Mar 2003 17:29:23 -0000 Received: from mpls-pop-14.inet.qwest.net (63.231.195.14) by mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net with QMQP; 1 Mar 2003 17:29:23 -0000 Received: from dnvr-dsl-gw20-poold151.dnvr.uswest.net (HELO marauder) (65.100.147.151) by mpls-pop-14.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 1 Mar 2003 17:48:54 -0000 X-Original-Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 10:49:08 -0700 X-Original-Message-ID: <00b901c2e01a$dc7c9980$0300000a@marauder> From: "Mike Hutchins" X-Original-To: "'Lancair Mailing List'" Subject: Gear Doors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook CWS, Build 9.0.6604 (9.0.2911.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: Bill Hogarty I agree that your idea for a torque arm makes good sense. Consider, however, that the real strength is derived not from the tube itself, but from the form it creates over which you place your layups. Maximum strength is achieved by maximizing the distance between the load-bearing skins. Strength increases in proportion to the distance between the skins raised to the 4th power, all else being equal. Thus, doubling the thickness of your torque arm would result in a theoretical 16-fold increase in stiffness. Using a real world example of a composite sandwich, increasing the form thickness from 3/8" to 3/4", will result in a 7-fold increase in stiffness, without additional layups ("Composite Basics" by Andrew C. Marshall). So, go grab some foam and make some tall hat sections in the desired shape of your torque arm (of course, they can't be so tall as to interfere with gear retraction). Make sure you get a good, stiff bond between the foam and the existing surfaces of your gear doors. This can be achieved by coating the surfaces of the foam with a very thin layer of thick micro, and then, while the thin micro layer is still uncured, scuff and prep the locations on the gear doors and paint a thin layer of resin on the surface of the gear door. Place your foam form pieces in position and put your bid layups over the top of the foam. Since you are essentially creating a shear web, the fiber orientation should probably be +/- 45 degrees. If there are any composite engineers out there, please chime in and correct me. Good luck Bill, I hope you get back in the air soon. Please post some pictures from your finished door mods so we can all learn from your experience. Best Regards, Mike Hutchins