Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:05:32 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r06.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.102] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0.1) with ESMTP id 1883146 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:17:42 -0500 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-r06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.13.) id q.3e.27de8b1e (30950) for ; Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:17:30 -0500 (EST) From: RWolf99@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <3e.27de8b1e.2b0d720a@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:17:30 EST Subject: Alodine X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 108 Bill Harrelson is right. You can alodine aluminum at home. Alumiprep 33 is good, and is a phosporic acid etch. It also causes the aluminum to foam up -- it's that effective. Rinse this off with distilled water (tap water sometimes leaves a discoloration) and apply Alodine 1201 before the water dries. Make sure you rinse off the Alumiprep really thoroughly from the crevices in the pushrod ends. It would be bad to have that stuff etching away for all time. That's why I do the tubes first. There are two types of alodine, or more accurately, chromium conversion coating (Alodine is a trade name). Alodine 1001 is basically clear, maybe a slight tint, and allows electrical conduction through the coating. Alodine 1201 is the darker golden color that we're used to, and is not guaranteed to conduct electricity, but usually does. If you're painting over it, I can't see how that makes any difference. I use the darker stuff because it looks better... Aluminum oxidizes *amazingly* fast. Knowledgable people have told me that I've never actually seen bare aluminum -- it oxidizes as fast as it can be exposed to air, even on a lathe or milling machine. So that's the reason for keeping the aluminum wet before brushing, dipping, swabbing on the alodine. Keeps the oxygen away. I think the professionals get better results than I do at home, so I have my alodining done professionally when I can. But not always. FWIW, I had some aluminum painted for a Space Shuttle experiment in the mid 1980's. The paint shop told me that "the single most important thing you can do to promote paint adhesion is Alodining" though clearly this applies only to aluminum. BTW, phosphoric acid (the stuff that makes the aluminum foam up) is an ingredient in Coca-Cola. You can actually take the rust off of steel with Coke. I've done it to my ski edges. Think about that next time you open up a can of soda. - Rob Wolf