Return-Path: Received: from imo13.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.3]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:55:48 -0500 Received: from Fredmoreno@aol.com by imo13.mx.aol.com (IMOv18.1) id 5LNJa05322 for ; Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:57:09 +1900 (EST) From: Fredmoreno@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:57:09 EST To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Some obwervations on finishing work X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I am piecing together my Lancair IV in our family room and so I am not real keen on applying paint with solvents to smell up the rest of the house. (My wife is a tolerant soul, but not that tolerant.) I have tried several of the water based products, and recently completed a lot of work with the new Poly- fiber water based polyurethane system. You add varying amounts of cross linker prior to application to control hardness and flexibility. They have formulated a primer that is heavy with pigments selected for ease of sanding. The application protocol is as follows: 1) After sanding, vacuum and wipe down with alcohol or use their wiping solution. 2) Roll on three coats of the primer (using their little rollers). This can be done in one day at 2-3 hour intervals. I brushed it on in areas where the roller wouldn't go, but the roller is the way to go if you can. 3) Sand with 240 grit, and use 120 or 180 if you need to take out a run. For sanding I am a convert to the 3M gold adhesive-backed sand paper (from local supplier to the auto body trade). It costs like gold, but does not load and lasts a long time. The supplier also had a 3 inch by 6 inch dense foam 3M sanding block that flexes nicely and has a nice hand hold. The primer sands beautifully. You will get a lot of heavy dust fast (it does not float around). I have a vacuum cleaner outside the room with a long line, remote switch near the sanding bench, and a brush, and I vacuum a lot to keep the place clean. 4) Do it again with three coats of their UV blocker. Their literature notes that they do not trust chemical UV blockers, particularly for protecting cloth, so they formulated this silver gray material. Sand when finished. 5) Three more coats of the "Smooth Prime" primer, and finish sand. You can wear the primer down to the UV protector layer and still be OK, and use this as a preliminary way of doing guide coat work. 6) Final coats are sprayed on. Note that they do not use clear coat since all the colors but silver are non metallic. They recommend final wet sanding and buffing to get the ultimate glassy finish (which you need to do with clear coat also). They publish a great instruction book with illustrations, free. Call 800-362-3490 and ask for a copy and a color card. On the web, www.polyfiber.com. Only drawback I see so far is a limited color selection and no metallics. Buy a quart of the primer and try it out. You will be a convert. Also use their ultralight weight filler instead of micro as a filler prior to priming. It works well, sands easily, makes fewer pin holes than sanded micro, and those fill well with their primer with the roller. Fred Moreno