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>First of all, the distance between the GM15 mounting pads on the engine
>mount is about .040-050" less than what the strut/GM15 assembly suggest
>that it should be. IOW, I had to jam the strut up into the engine mount...
I didn't have this problem but if your need to use ANYTHING over moderate force
to install the strut, alter the parts. There's a section in the National
Electric Code I remember from years ago. It goes something like this: "All
work must be performed in a workman like manner." We homebuilders, in
general, have a pretty good "gyroscope". If it's not going together right,
you know it. Fiberglass and weldments are never going to be exact. If you
don't have a Bridgeport or one of those inexpensive imported bench mills,
get one. It will save you a lot of time.
>The next thing is the fit of the drag link in the nose gear tunnel between
>the hard points. In order to get it installed we found that we had to
>apply a scissors jack to the inside walls of the tunnel to spread them
>apart about .090"(+/-) so we could get it in without tearing up the skin.
I had the same problem. I machined .030 off each oil-lite bushing and
everything worked MUCH better. A very light jacking will then permit you to
install this part without messing up any paint.
I also had to machine the upper scissor link as it wouldn't fit into the
drag link pivot weldment. (Sorry I'm not going to stop and look up the
GM's.) I'm also not happy about just using an AN bolt for the pivot at the
nose strut. I'm going to machine links out of 4140 and use a rod end there.
This will also permit you to adjust your lock down angle. Remember, unless
you have finished your firewall, your engine mount / firewall bolts at
torque, and have your engine mounted, this geometry will change. I'm also
going to change main gear links to 4140. Doesn't seem to have any
historical problems but seems to worry everyone.
Hope this helps.
Myron Oakley
E-mail moakley@z-tech.com
Personal WWW http://www.z-tech.net/myhomebuilt
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