Return-Path: Received: from [64.45.219.245] (account ) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WebUser 4.0) with HTTP id 1851436 for ; Sun, 03 Nov 2002 00:18:34 -0500 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Legacy Fuselage Attach To Center Wing, Horiz Stab, &Vertical Stab Close Out To: lml X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro Web Mailer v.4.0 Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 00:18:34 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <002801c282f8$0dd5a240$67244ec7@1vne2> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for "Brad and Tracy Simmons" : Regarding L2K center section and tail assembly; I have been through three Legacy build shop weeks, two including bonding in the center section, horizontal stab, and closing the vertical tail. I found that the jigs were quite accurate, but we were actually able to do a better job in our shop on Legacy kit #7 which predated the fast build shop fuselage jig. If you're doing this at home, you don't actually need all the fixtures in the book. We cut two cradles to match the outboard stub wing rib profile and bolted these to sawhorses. A third sawhorse was situated under the tail of the airplane perpendicular to the center line. A cradle to hold the tail of the fuselage was bolted to the center of this sawhorse. The aircraft was then situated level in both pitch and roll in this structure, and the proper wing incidence was established. We installed the outboard wing sections to more accurately position the center section on the fuselage. Hysoling the ctr. section in was accomplished by supporting the fuselage above the still level wing assembly with 2 x 4s while Hysol was applied. As for the horizontal stab; Two by fours were bolted vertically to the rear sawhorse and horizontal stab templates attached to these, setting the incidence of the tail. After hysoling this in, a few clamps/weights held the whole assembly in place to dry. One side of this structure needs to be easily removable/replaceable in order to insert the stab into the fuselage cradle at an angle so all the Hysol isn't scraped off. The vertical tail/rudder was a different story. We did a much better job at home than we did on the two kits assembled using Lancair's jigs. Both of those rudders required quite a bit more micro work in order to get flat sides and straight trailing edges. In our shop, I just bolted straight edges (aluminum angle) to the trailing edge of the rudder and at horizontal stab/rudder cut line. We used clecos on the ribs and duct tape on the leading edge. Our right vertical stab skin was in perfect alignment with the aircraft center line so I didn't feel we needed all the rib templates mentioned in the book. The factory jigs do make the process of locating all this stuff go a bit faster since all you have to do is drop your kit in and align with the center line. I would encourage anyone not bonding everything together at the factory to align all the critical parts and drill alignment holes, making the process of relocating everything at home later go quicker. Regards, Brad Simmons Airframes Inc. Milan, TN > Any advice for us before we start mixing Hysol -- or even better, before > we bond the jigs to the floor?