Return-Path: Received: from olympus.net ([198.133.237.1]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:55:26 -0500 Received: from sq194162.olympus.net ([207.149.194.162] helo=bill) by olympus.net with smtp (Exim 2.02 #1) id 0zzmW9-0003W7-00 for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:56:49 -0800 Message-ID: <002f01be3d94$46a623e0$a2c295cf@bill> From: "William T Bartlett" To: Subject: Middle gear door brackets Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:44:55 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> N7WB is an early 235 (#135) and I couldn't figure out how to make the brackets work. With the gear retracted there wasn't room for the doors to fully close. I adjusted the outer and inner gear doors, cut out the inner skin and foam around the gear casting until the middle doors would close and then opened the opening another 1/4" all around and bonded a 2-bid patch to the outside skin over the opening I had made. I then laid a 6-bid strip, 2.5 inches wide from the front of the door to the aft side (leave room for the lip on the wing cutout). I painted the entire casting with release agent. I then retracted the gear, filled my cutout with dry micro and pressed the middle door into place, blocked it there with a jack and let it set up. I then drilled two holes through the gear doors with and into the gear casting with a # 21 drill. I threaded the holes in the casting 10-32 (would have better to use 10-24) and opened the holes in the doors with a #9 drill and counter sunk them. I screwed the doors to the gear casting. The doors fit perfectly and have given me no trouble. I have changed the compression donuts once, and by keeping the stack the same thickness the doors close in the same place. Bill