Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net> (Marvin Kaye)
To: lml
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 13:28:58 -0400
Message-ID: <redirect-1804010@logan.com>
From: "The Colwell's" <colwell@innercite.com>
References: <list-1803157@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Delamination
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>
> Under what circumstances can you "soak up" acetone.  I live in California
> and acetone takes less than 1 second to evaporate in my hangar.  After
this
> evaporation, is there something I still need to soak up?  How do I soak up
> something that is dry?  I usually wipe the area 3-4 times with acetone.

Acetone or Methylene Chloride can be "soaked up" by the: "If a little is
good, then more is better method".

If your wet wipe is dripping with solvent or if enough is applied to
penetrate to the core the residue will be venting out and not be visible.
Evidence of this are "Fish Eyes" as the vapor dissolves and dilutes freshly
applied resin.  If you want a scary demonstration, try it on a piece of
scrap cored material.  Get the sample good and wet with solvent, give the
surface a minute or two to "look" dry, then paint on some resin.  This was
much more evident on the old Saf T Poxy II which was more soluble by Acetone
than Jeffco.  One way to avoid this problem is to allow the surface to vent
for 30 min. or so. Be very careful using a heat gun around acetone
(fire/explosion) or those nasty M/C vapors.

Not to relaunch the Methylene Chloride debate, but IF enough oil
(accumulated oil off your skin, air compressor mist, etc.) is on a surface
to be bonded Acetone is a very poor solvent for it.  (See previous detailed
posts in the Archives for strongly held opinions.)

Steve Colwell   Legacy 2K  Placerville,CA   (530) 621-3408