Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #13887
From: Jim Cameron <toucan@78055.com>
Sender: Marvin Kaye <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: ES Fuselage / Door bonding
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 23:34:52 -0400
To: <lml>
For Mark Lally and other ES builders:
 
    You are right -- the order in which the Lancair manual says to build things is completely out of whack.  Part of the trouble is that the manual was based mostly on the original prototype ES, and has not been changed much over the years.  It's still completely oriented to the slow-build, which they haven't even sold in several years.
 
    First of all, do EVERYTHING you can before putting the top on.  That means finishing out the baggage area, running all your wiring, pitot/static tubes, etc., etc.  I mean everything, because after the top goes on, everything gets much more difficult.  Instead of reaching in over the side, you're crawling back in a tube.  I actually had almost all the electronics in, the engine and prop hung, and the panel nearly finished before putting the top on this time (my second ES).  You have to make sure you can still access the proper places to apply the reinforcements around the firewall area, but really, the top can be put off almost to the last.  It makes life a lot easier.
 
    If you have the original slow-build door, expect to spend a lot of hours making everything fit.  There's no reason you can't do this long after everything else inside is finished, and the top is finally bonded on.  On the door frame members, I had to make a series of slits in a couple of the parts because the complex curves of the moldings didn't fit the complex curve of the fuselage.  Stiffen the upper rear corner of the door so it doesn't pooch out from the door spring pressure.  [There have been other postings on this problem in the past, but e-mail me if all you have is the factory advice to add a few more plies, which does nothing at all.]
 
    If you have the original pin latches (one on each side, about a third of the way up the door), throw them away.  Vern can probably give you a parts list to convert to the IV-style door latches.  I used two on the bottom of the door, which worked pretty well, much better than the pin latches.  Seems to me it cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $300 to $400 for the parts to convert.  It's a lot of little parts, and you'll need the blueprints for the IV door, plus the manual section on building the IV door latch.  It's a bit confusing, since the IV-P has 8 of the little beggars, and a little improvisation is required.
 
    Don't put the right co-pilot side window in until the door is finished.  If you follow the manual, you'll be trying to crawl in and out of the baggage door.  It's a contortionist feat, and a long way down to the floor.  If you leave the co-pilot side window out, you can just step in and out on the wing.
 
Jim Cameron
N143ES
 
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