Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 23:34:52 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0b2) with ESMTP id 1291827 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 12 Jun 2002 22:54:24 -0400 Received: from mail.indian-creek.net ([209.176.40.9]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71866U8000L800S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Wed, 12 Jun 2002 22:48:49 -0400 Received: from VAIO ([209.176.40.26]) by mail.indian-creek.net with SMTP (IOA-IPAD 3.0) id 1600600; Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:53:22 -0500 X-Original-Message-ID: <001f01c21285$8428c550$1a28b0d1@VAIO> From: "Jim Cameron" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mail List" Subject: ES Fuselage / Door bonding X-Original-Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:53:35 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2125B.9A47B5F0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2125B.9A47B5F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable For Mark Lally and other ES builders: You are right -- the order in which the Lancair manual says to build = things is completely out of whack. Part of the trouble is that the = manual was based mostly on the original prototype ES, and has not been = changed much over the years. It's still completely oriented to the = slow-build, which they haven't even sold in several years. First of all, do EVERYTHING you can before putting the top on. That = means finishing out the baggage area, running all your wiring, = pitot/static tubes, etc., etc. I mean everything, because after the top = goes on, everything gets much more difficult. Instead of reaching in = over the side, you're crawling back in a tube. I actually had almost = all the electronics in, the engine and prop hung, and the panel nearly = finished before putting the top on this time (my second ES). You have = to make sure you can still access the proper places to apply the = reinforcements around the firewall area, but really, the top can be put = off almost to the last. It makes life a lot easier. If you have the original slow-build door, expect to spend a lot of = hours making everything fit. There's no reason you can't do this long = after everything else inside is finished, and the top is finally bonded = on. On the door frame members, I had to make a series of slits in a = couple of the parts because the complex curves of the moldings didn't = fit the complex curve of the fuselage. Stiffen the upper rear corner of = the door so it doesn't pooch out from the door spring pressure. [There = have been other postings on this problem in the past, but e-mail me if = all you have is the factory advice to add a few more plies, which does = nothing at all.] If you have the original pin latches (one on each side, about a = third of the way up the door), throw them away. Vern can probably give = you a parts list to convert to the IV-style door latches. I used two on = the bottom of the door, which worked pretty well, much better than the = pin latches. Seems to me it cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $300 = to $400 for the parts to convert. It's a lot of little parts, and = you'll need the blueprints for the IV door, plus the manual section on = building the IV door latch. It's a bit confusing, since the IV-P has 8 = of the little beggars, and a little improvisation is required. Don't put the right co-pilot side window in until the door is = finished. If you follow the manual, you'll be trying to crawl in and = out of the baggage door. It's a contortionist feat, and a long way down = to the floor. If you leave the co-pilot side window out, you can just = step in and out on the wing. Jim Cameron N143ES ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2125B.9A47B5F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
For Mark Lally and other ES = builders:
 
    You are right -- the = order in=20 which the Lancair manual says to build things is completely out of = whack. =20 Part of the trouble is that the manual was based mostly on the original=20 prototype ES, and has not been changed much over the years.  It's = still=20 completely oriented to the slow-build, which they haven't even sold in = several=20 years.
 
    First of all, do = EVERYTHING=20 you can before putting the top on.  That means finishing out = the=20 baggage area, running all your wiring, pitot/static tubes, etc., = etc.  I=20 mean everything, because after the top goes on, everything gets much = more=20 difficult.  Instead of reaching in over the side, you're crawling = back in a=20 tube.  I actually had almost all the electronics in, the engine and = prop=20 hung, and the panel nearly finished before putting the top on this = time (my=20 second ES).  You have to make sure you can still access the proper = places=20 to apply the reinforcements around the firewall area, but really, the = top can be=20 put off almost to the last.  It makes life a lot = easier.
 
    If you have the = original=20 slow-build door, expect to spend a lot of hours making everything = fit. =20 There's no reason you can't do this long after everything else inside is = finished, and the top is finally bonded on.  On the door frame = members, I=20 had to make a series of slits in a couple of the parts because the = complex=20 curves of the moldings didn't fit the complex curve of the = fuselage. =20 Stiffen the upper rear corner of the door so it doesn't pooch out from = the door=20 spring pressure.  [There have been other postings on this problem = in the=20 past, but e-mail me if all you have is the factory advice to add a few = more=20 plies, which does nothing at all.]
 
    If you have the = original pin=20 latches (one on each side, about a third of the way up the door), throw = them=20 away.  Vern can probably give you a parts list to convert to the = IV-style=20 door latches.  I used two on the bottom of the door, which worked = pretty=20 well, much better than the pin latches.  Seems to me it cost = somewhere in=20 the neighborhood of $300 to $400 for the parts to convert.  It's a = lot of=20 little parts, and you'll need the blueprints for the IV door, plus the = manual=20 section on building the IV door latch.  It's a bit confusing, since = the=20 IV-P has 8 of the little beggars, and a little improvisation is=20 required.
 
    Don't put the=20 right co-pilot side window in until the door is finished.  If = you=20 follow the manual, you'll be trying to crawl in and out of the baggage=20 door.  It's a contortionist feat, and a long way down to the = floor. =20 If you leave the co-pilot side window out, you can just step in and = out on=20 the wing.
 
Jim Cameron
N143ES
 
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