Return-Path: Received: from mailarray.mpx.com.au ([203.29.192.98]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with ESMTP id AAA6093 for ; Thu, 3 Dec 1998 22:00:16 -0500 Received: from nuteye(really [198.142.155.80]) by mailarray.mpx.com.au via smtpd with smtp id for ; Fri, 4 Dec 98 14:00:37 +1100 (/\##/\ Smail3.1.30.13.SOL #30.20 built 28-jun-97) From: "Graham" To: Subject: Firewall! Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 12:59:29 +1100 Message-ID: <000001be1f32$3e6fe920$6a0082be@nuteye> Importance: Normal X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I have successfully used 1/4" phenolic pads at mounting locations but I was chasing a better finish around the edges. To do this I laid up a 3 bid (I think) angle that followed the cowl mounting flange and turned in over the Stainless sheet (this also hides the edges). I then have nutplates attached to this, larger ones for the forward deck/cowl attach and small ones in between to actually hold this to the fixed flange. This angle effectively becomes a multi-nut nut plate in itself. The fibrefax keeps the S/S tensioned from the back against the flange. Around the nose gear cutout I have phenolic strips with some 6-32 blind nuts (Du-Bro model aircraft bits) buried in the back of them before bonding. Make sure it is drilled behind these nuts to allow for some extra screw length. I then screw through the stainless nose gear cover plate, firewall stainless and phenolic edge trim in one go. I can now remove the Stainless and fibrefax at any time without ruining the paintwork, no silicone around edges etc and the paint lines are all neat. Hope this is clear and perhaps useful to someone Graham Nutt